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Thread: Starter solenoid buzzing

  1. #1
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    Starter solenoid buzzing

    Hi All,

    I have been through two starter solenoids on my 1971 wide-light 2a in the past year, both of which randomly don't work, they just buzz instead, but then sometime start working again. I'm reluctant to buy yet another starter solenoid to have the same problem.

    Does anyone have any clues as to why this might be happening ?

    And is there a specific solenoid I can buy that absolutely won't have this problem ?

    Thanks
    John

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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnboyLandy View Post
    Hi All,

    I have been through two starter solenoids on my 1971 wide-light 2a in the past year, both of which randomly don't work, they just buzz instead, but then sometime start working again. I'm reluctant to buy yet another starter solenoid to have the same problem.

    Does anyone have any clues as to why this might be happening ?

    And is there a specific solenoid I can buy that absolutely won't have this problem ?

    Thanks
    John


    Is this the firewall fitted press Button type? If so did it come in a Blue Box?

  3. #3
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    Hi 4bee,

    No not in a blue box. Not sure what you mean by press button type, I have the start position as part of the ignition switch.

    Cheers,
    John

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    Yours is the later one it seems. A Lucas probably which my previous searches indicated they were used on a heap of vehicles.

    Just that I have gone through 2 of those Britpart Firewall switches. Most people refer to Britpart as ****Part. "Nudge nudge, wink wink, say no more" Sorry can't help you but it was worth a try.

    The one fitted at the mo seems to be a good one.

  5. #5
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    The issue is almost certainly a poor connection somewhere. It sounds as if the solenoid is not getting full voltage on the coil. This could be either in the circuit that operates it through the ignition switch, or the circuit carrying the actual starting current, which is, because of a poor connection, dropping the voltage to everything when the starter takes a large current.

    In the first case, the prime suspect is the ignition switch itself, but could be any other link in the circuit. I the second case, the prime suspect is the engine-chassis link if the battery is earthed to the chassis, but could be any other connection, including between the heavy battery wires and the tags on the end of them. A socket and bulb with an alligator clip on each wire is the easiest troubleshooting device.

    Of course, it could also be a faulty battery.
    John

    JDNSW
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    Yeah, thanks John, I'll just have to go through the whole lot.

    Cheers,
    John

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    it can be the solenoid wired up the wrong way around..

    some have 4 poles on them 2 big ones and 2 small ones, the small ones are 1. for the ballast resistor bypass 2. the ignition. these are pretty hard to get wrong. there is one last type that has 5 poles

    2 big ones and 3 small the small ones are

    1. earth
    2. ballast bypass
    3. starter signal.

    there is also a type that has both a pull in and hold in winding. If you get this one in backwards (big terminals on the wrong sides) they do funny things depending on the temperature and voltages.
    Dave

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    OK, this is now getting weird.

    I re-did the earth for the solenoid since it's earth through the body, and that seemed to improve the situation for a while, but now I'm back to buzzing. This solenoid has a sticker saying "Ingram 841262 12 Volt" and looks pretty heavy duty.

    So I swapped it out for a new Lucas 13H5952L / SRB341 which I believe is the standard solenoid for series 3. This one behaves exactly the same, it buzzes. This one is not earthed though the body, but rather earthed via a (small) terminal.

    However, if I disconnect the high current line from the battery, the solenoid is happy, it just clicks not buzzes. Then I did the same test with the Ingram one I took out, and it's exactly the same, without the high current line from the battery connected, it just clicks as you would expect.

    How can having the battery line connected make the solenoid work properly or not ? It's like the solenoid thinks there's too much current going to the starter and disconnects, then connects again over and over, but both are doing this.

    Neither solenoid has any markings on the terminals, so I have just gone with small terminal(s) for start trigger, and big terminals for line to battery and line to starter, and always the big terminal closest to the firewall as the one for the starer motor.

    Also, it's not the starter switch as I am testing with a wire connecting the trigger connection directly to the battery.

    Can any one help please ?

    Thanks
    John

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    Sounds like it is corrected backwards
    Phil B

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  10. #10
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    Is your temporary connection to the battery atm a screw/hard terminal or are you just holding it against the Batt Term loosely?

    Which brings me to my second point. Has your battery actually been tested, as a bad connection inside the battery itself would give you the same result.

    Trying another known to be good battery may indicate that. In other words, your Starters & cables may be ok but the "bad connection" is inside the battery. It has to be something common.

    I guess a load test by an Auto Sparky may prove or disprove this. At least you'll know.

    As you may realise the starter Motor usually draws the highest Current when starting so it seems possible it is breaking down elsewhere.

    There may be enough Volts to operate the Solenoid but not the load of the motor. See where i'm going with this?

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