Originally Posted by
Busted Syncro
G'day Colin,
I don't have any problems with my clutch setup, as per the Manual.
What you are missing here is part of the design of the clutch withdrawal mechanism on the 2a. The withdrawal sleeve bearing is oil lubricated from the gearbox and the outer race slides along the housing. There is no oil seal between the primary pinion bearing and the clutch. An Archimedes Screw is machined in the input shaft to return oil back to the bearing and away from the clutch assembly. The withdrawal sleeve forms part of this process because it is always rotating with the clutch assembly. It was designed that way in the 1960's so that the clutch system is self adjusting for wear on the driven plate as well. I have never had to replace a withdrawal sleeve bearing in my 46 years of ownership!.
The reason why modern clutch withdrawal bearings need to have clearance from the rotating clutch assembly is they are sealed and grease lubricated. They only rotate when the clutch is depressed. They don't last long if they are allowed to rotate with the clutch when driving normally. They have a return spring on the clutch operating lever and a stop to set the clearance away from the clutch.
That's why you don't park a Series 2a with the nose down a steep hill. Oil flows out along the input shaft and into the clutch assembly.
Thank you for listening to my thoughts on the subject. (We haven't mentioned the trailing brake shoes without return springs or adjusters on the 2A brake shoes and how that works. Maybe the same engineers designed the clutch slave system?.)
Chris
Chris,
Having two Series II's I understand the clutch release mechanism but there is no need to have the bearing continually revolving.
The point I was making was about removing the spring so that the slave cylinder takes up part of the travel before being operated. The idea of the spring is that you always get full travel of the slave cylinder available to operate the clutch, adjustment needs to be made elsewhere.
Both my Series II's operate perfectly with spring in place and the one I sold a few years back was the same. No need to measure how far the piston is from the circlip because with full piston travel available it's not an issue although I do understand how spring removal would make the system self adjusting.
Trailing brake shoes don't need return springs until you reverse the vehicle, then it might be an issue.
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
'58 Series II (sold)
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C
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