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Thread: Marmalade the IIa

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ypsilophora View Post
    Yes, have heard one needs to order multiple split ring things - nasty buggers to get off though!



    Very cheap it seems - but paddocks don't have any OEM bearings; the other aftermarket bearings I ordered are pretty rubbish. Did you get new aftermarket bearings? if so, did you find them acceptable?

    Also is it recommended to replace the little bimetal thrust washers? (part no. 521328) Attachment 169194

    Luca
    3 or 4 very thin flat blade screwdriver’s makes it easy. Push one at a time in and wiggle them around evenly spaced. If you’re adjusting the end float you’ll remove it half a dozen times.

    Bearings, I used craddocks and bearmach. For me avoid britpart because I had issues with several where the outer race diameter was off.

    I found most sure had after market and oem ( marked as a G after the part number) and the cost was not that different.

    I did replace the thrust washer as mine has worn.

    There are some shims as well, I measured and then ordered, but in hindsight they cost about $1 each so I would buy $5 worth in different sizes, gets you close enough.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cadas View Post
    There are some shims as well, I measured and then ordered, but in hindsight they cost about $1 each so I would buy $5 worth in different sizes, gets you close enough.
    You wouldn’t happen to remember the part number? Only because I haven’t managed to work it out (British auto parts in Aus have them, but the price is somewhat.... discouraging)

    Luca

  3. #33
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    I’ll check. From memory they were $1 each from uk but postage was $27. If I’d bought 10 with the rest of the bits it would have been cheaper.

    If you are looking at the thrust shims then take deep breath and sit down first. Then check if yours can be reused. If it’s worn though the top layer then they need replacing.

    I’ll look this evening

  4. #34
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    Cylinder head came off the other day!

    I suspect the exhaust valve stem seal might be toast... seems to be evidence of leakage into the cylinder.
    Whilst the head is off would it potentially be worthwhile to send it off to be cleaned/machined?

    The cylinder walls themselves seem pretty good, a little staining - I assume from sitting around for an unknown length of time. Reading original size, and no noticeable lip. Seems original hone marks are still evident.

    Pistons also seem pretty good

    The bearings look completely unworn, OEM bearings are cheap - so new set of them anyway

    Ordered a new set of OEM rings, not sure if I really need them, but it can’t hurt!
    Piston one possibly shows evidence of a little blow by (I assume that is what caused the slight staining):
    Symptom of dodgy rings?

    Luca

  5. #35
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    Did you do a compression test before you stripped it?

  6. #36
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    The shims are described as thrust washers in the manual, Two different types on page 156 marked as items 13&20

    Part#s 267572 onwards (for 13)
    And 50702/03, etc ( for 20).

    Thinking back, the really expensive shims are the two inside the transfer box either side of the intermediate gear, 219469.... they were something like $100 each.

    My old ones were deemed to be fine Marmalade the IIa

  7. #37
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    Should there be an oil scraper ring at the bottom of the pistons ?
    The groove with holes looks distinctly like its made for an oil scraper.

    When you say OEM rings and shell bearings what does that mean ? A lot of aftermarket parts are sold as 'OEM' which supposedly means that they are an Original Equipment Manufacturer to Land Rover but they don't state who they make the original equipment for.........probably not Land Rover
    All I'm saying is is be careful with suppliers using the term 'OEM' for parts.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  8. #38
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    Hey Cadis,
    Thanks heaps for that - found them no worries now
    unfortunately, I wasn't able to get it compression tested... couldn't drive it into any local workshops and no one around had a diesel compression tester - for all I know the compression was perfect and piston rings were not an issue at all.


    Gromit: I don't know! I've never even seen a piston before now... honestly I just assumed the funny groove with holes was some sort of oil scraper - but maybe someone with more experience with these engines can chime in.
    Actually, looking at my order history I ordered 'genuine' (they don't say genuine LR tho... so maybe they mean they are real... )... they were only a few $ more than britpart, so I figured it couldn't hurt. either way the part number had a G after it

    Luca

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ypsilophora View Post


    Gromit: I don't know! I've never even seen a piston before now... honestly I just assumed the funny groove with holes was some sort of oil scraper - but maybe someone with more experience with these engines can chime in.
    Just looked at the parts manual and it doesn't show an oil scraper ring in the lower groove.
    The groove itself must collect oil and the holes let it travel back down to the sump.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  10. #40
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    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    If you consider getting the head skimmed, you need to be aware that the precombustion chambers must be slightly proud of the head face.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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