Front axle hub ?

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Originally Posted by Cap

I am the same, I have them running pretty much engaged all the time as the donor S3 front end I pulled them off had the unis completely destroyed in the swivels... apparently a sign of not enough oil being splashed around inside by leaving them disengaged for too long. I have the M11 ones.

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What are 'M11' ones ?

I wouldn't have thought the UJ's would fail due to oil not being splashed around. They dip in the oil so would quickly get lubricated when the hubs are engaged or 4WD is selected plus needle rollers need minimal lubrication anyway. More likely lack of oil altogether or water ingress/condensation.
There is the problem of trying to get UJ's without seals so that the oil can get in to lubricate, most I've used you can't just remove the seal because it also locates the needle rollers.

I run my shorty with the hubs unlocked but engage 4WD for short trips to splash oil around to lubricate the Railco bearings. There is no way to check that both shafts are spinning (rather than just one) so some trips are made with the hubs engaged.


Colin

Colin - these are the Warn brand. I think they are fairly common, seen these around on photos.

Here is mine:
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/tjK0BBaVCF4/maxresdefault.jpg

The needles that came off the S3 where mushed, as in some where sitting on the base of the swivel mixing it up with the bearing ([bigrolf]) but most was grinded to paste.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cap

Colin - these are the Warn brand. I think they are fairly common, seen these around on photos.

The needles that came off the S3 where mushed, as in some where sitting on the base of the swivel mixing it up with the bearing ([bigrolf]) but most was grinded to paste.

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Hadn't heard of M11 but had heard of Warn freewheel hubs.

I have seen UJ's that have failed but in an oil filled swivel hub, even if not rotating, there must have been something else at play....



Colin

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Originally Posted by Wall Banger

Hi again..

I have inherited a 1962 Series 2a SWB from a hard line outbacker who had it since new, however he took all the information to the grave with him so unable to question about any changes made over the years. I only a Series 2 88 and 109 workshop manual and owners book to work on.
I had ordered brake parts prior to disassembly to find that this vehicle has LWB 11 inch brakes and a hub not mentioned in the manuals, can any shine so light on this?
I had never owned such a vehicle and i remember the old bastard never talked about his landrover or even driven it as long as knew him over thirty years.
Attachment 166847 Attachment 166848 what are these?

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Hi again, I had just jacked up the front wheels loose off the ground to play with wheel hub setting by rotating drive shaft and noting wheel rotation.

With both hub screw set to OUT, front wheels rotate in opposite direction while moving drive shaft as normal diff.
However .
With both hub screws set to IN, front wheels rotate in same direction while rotating drive shaft.

Now I'm confused as regardless of hub screw setting drive shaft is engaged to front wheels, and 4WD is engaged.

I had an early 1980's Dihatsu 4WD with diff-lock operation (get me out the ****) remotely connected by pneumatic to diff itself to gearbox leaver.
Does someone has the same hub as pictured, I'm in the guess now since noting driveshaft and wheel rotation and diff -lock on a past vehicle.
???


:toilet:

I have the same freewheel hubs as those, and in my experience they are close to the pick of the lot. But note that all freewheel hubs will have some drag due to friction and oil viscosity, so that turning the shaft and seeing which wheel turns is not particularly definitive.

To confirm what is free to turn and what is locked, you need to put some turning resistance in place. For example. if four wheel drive is engaged, and park brake applied, with the front wheels off the ground and the hubs engaged, turning one wheel will force the other to turn in the opposite direction. Locking one wheel either by lowering it to the ground or locking the wheel with the brake adjuster, should mean the opposite one cannot be turned with out unlocking a hub. You can use this setup in combinations to check the functioning of the freewheel hubs and to check for U-joint problems.