Hello

Hi guys and thanks for the info on the "Bog" or whatever seems to have been painted over so when I finish the chassis I will start the body panels and find out a bit more then, engine and gearboxes come out next then it's up to Bundaberg with the engine for a recon. I will then set about the chassis lots to do.

Just a general enquiry in relation to buying parts in Australia, where is the best place? I am also having a problem removing the Steering relay out of the chassis, it does not want to budge no matter what I do to it. Any ideas!
Paul

Have a good read through both 2/2a and Series 3 forums, there are a number of sagas about removal of steering relays. The problem is a buildup of rust around the relay. Some have managed to remove them, some have overhauled the relay in situ, some have effectively cut out and replaced part of the chassis!

Thanks John I was thinking of rebuilding the new parts in situ when they arrive, I have used heat and diesel plus a bigger hammer each time plus a threaded bar and steel blocks to try to draw the thing out. I am quite creative but this has stumped me, wouldn't have touched it but lower arm was welded to the splined shaft so a common problem.
Regards
Paul

Read the manual, no real problem overhauling in situ, just be careful of the spring tension. If the bottom arm is welded on, you will have to remove the guts out the bottom.

John

Tip some thin oil, WD 40 or similar around the relay and let it soak through.
The hole in the chassis is larger than the OD of the relay but the collar at the bottom is a tight fit. This means that road dirt enters easily at the top but can't get out the bottom !

I've been lucky so far, every one has been extracted just using crowbars and steel packers.

2a GS Refurb ARN 178-334

If the lower arm has been welded on it must have come loose at some point and the splines have been damaged.



Colin

Thanks Colin I am turning the chassis over today so will get a better swing on the hammer after lubricating the bottom, yes the bottom arm was welded due to the splines on the relay stripping which sounds like a common problem. I have been quite surprised the only major issue looks like the rear Crossmember which is quite badly rusted so will need to source another, I took a photo of all the extra farming equipment that I have removed and the poor chassis must have breathed a huge sigh of relief. Just a quick question what is the best spark plug to use on the 2.25LTR Rover engine as I have been looking at various web sites on the issue and so many varieties to choose from and any favourites on Fan belt type?
Thanks
Paul

Spark plug depends on whether it is 7:1 or 8: com[ression, but these engines are not particuarly fussy about plugs, so do not expect any significant difference as long as it is the right heat range and length, projection.

Thanks John will ask the guys at the engine restorers on Tuesday, is there a wiring diagram on this forum?
Paul

See 'shop" in the top of the page. The Rave CDs available here both help support the forum and have all the manuals which include wiring diagrams. The one you need is Series 2/2a.