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Thread: Help to identify the year of my 11a

  1. #1
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    Help to identify the year of my 11a

    Hi I recently acquired this Landy, it had the flat bed installed in 2013 . Not sure when the Holden 202 went in. I am keen to identify or narrow down the year she was made. I have the chassis # but believe there is no indication on this as to the year?? (Only the series and suffix)?
    #25305163B.
    The rest of the running gear is original along with the cab ,guards and interior.
    She has held up well for being some 50 years +.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme B View Post
    Hi I recently acquired this Landy, it had the flat bed installed in 2013 . Not sure when the Holden 202 went in. I am keen to identify or narrow down the year she was made. I have the chassis # but believe there is no indication on this as to the year?? (Only the series and suffix)?
    #25305163B.
    The rest of the running gear is original along with the cab ,guards and interior.
    She has held up well for being some 50 years +.
    Hi great looking landy just pop your chassis number into Calvin to give you a ruff year

    CalVIN, the Land Rover VIN CALculator
    1960 series 2 143001010
    1976 series 3 91331709c
    98 discovery 300tdi manual
    06 discovery v6
    2010 cub supamatic drover

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by CalVIN
    Model: Land Rover, Series IIA
    Body type: Basic
    Wheel base: 109in
    Engine: petrol
    Model years: 1962-1971
    Destination: Completely knocked down (CKD), right-hand drive (RHD)
    Serial number: 05163
    Design: One significant design modification
    Suffix used from March 1963 till April 1966
    Is that a build plate or something in front of the brake master cylinder? I wouldn't have expected that on a IIA.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  4. #4
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    I think it is a modification plate, presumably for the engine.

    The data given above by Calvin looks accurate from other clues. Note that the dates gien by Calvin are likely to be slightly inaccurate for Australia, if you are after the date they were sold (Calvin date is when the CKD kit was made, not when it was assembled in Australia and sold). Also, as local content increased in this period, changes often lagged well behind UK production, and a few unique Australian bits began to appear.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  5. #5
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    Help to identify the year of my 11a

    1963

    Land Rover FAQ: Series, Production Data: 25300000

    You can get detailed information from the British Motor Museum.

  6. #6
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    Thanks this is a great help.

    Thanks guys great info and advice,

    The plate on the inner guard in front of the break booster, is a new re vin plate, noting all the vechil details, this was necessary as the original registration had lapsed and new plates had to be issued for road use. That was done in 1994.
    She has spent her life on large remote farms in south island NZ.

    I got the clutch sorted yesterday ( rebuild master and new flexible hose) so had a good run in it today all is well, it's certainly a symphony of gears meshing together, but she laughed at some pretty rough and steep off road. IMG-20210315-WA0003.jpgIMG-20210315-WA0004.jpg
    There was a bit of solid knocks going on some where in the front chassis near drivers feet, that I have to explore.... I'm thinking possibly shackell bushes or possibly in the steering, though you don't feel it through the wheel.
    Any suggestions would be welcomed.
    Thanks again.

  7. #7
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    Hi,

    In relation to the knocking - I would suggest:

    * Check the chassis bushes ?
    * Check the spring bushes ?
    * Check the spring clamps ?
    * As you say - check the shocks.
    * It's not something like a lose bump stop?

    Cheers,
    GG.
    54 Series 1 86
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    76 2 Door Range Rover
    78 101 Forward Control - Club Rego
    88 Perentie FFR - Club Rego
    90 4 Door Range Rover - Club Rego
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    98 Freelander 1 - Full Rego
    22 Defedner 90 - Full rego

  8. #8
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    On the S1's the spring hangers are adjustable to take side movement out , not sure if it is same on S2's . The springs can knock if there is any side movement between shackle bushes & hangers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1950landy View Post
    On the S1's the spring hangers are adjustable to take side movement out , not sure if it is same on S2's . The springs can knock if there is any side movement between shackle bushes & hangers.
    I've had a bush loose in the spring eye which made a hell of a thump on cornering as the spring hit the spring hanger. Ended up fitting a polybush (which I'm not a fan of) because the side flanges stopped the spring shifting sideways.
    Eventually swapped the spring but it's worth noting that lubricating conventional spring bushes when replacing can cause problems.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  10. #10
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1950landy View Post
    On the S1's the spring hangers are adjustable to take side movement out , not sure if it is same on S2's . The springs can knock if there is any side movement between shackle bushes & hangers.
    On all Series Landrovers the inner tube of the bushes MUST be clamped tightly between the two side plates of the shackle. Failure to have this will result in the shackle bush side plates wearing grooves that will prevent this clamping (the plates can be reversed so you get two chances) and in a very short time this inner tube will wear through, followed by the rubber bush, and then you are really in strife.

    Similarly, the outer sleeve should be a press fit in the spring eye or chassis. If this is moving, it is not quite as bad a situation, but is a bit harder to deal with. In the past, I have used a sleeve cut from a jam tin with some success. If left unfixed, it will eventually lead to major chassis work (cut out and replace the tube) and in any case, if the bush moves freely in either the chassis or the spring, the vehicle is unroadworthy as this will cause wandering steering.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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