If it is a suffix B box with original transfer case, it may be fitted with a much sought after 44/22 intermediate gear that has the larger shaft and bearing as used on later gear boxes. That particular gear was only used on "B" boxes.
.W.
Thanks for the updates!
Ok, I confirmed my reverse is 17/20 so it does line up with the 15 teeth first on the lay. Even though I have no letter on the gearbox all this points to a B.
Presumably with the overhaul and between replacing the layshaft bearing and first gear thats well worn (shown on the first pictures) that has to help this rotating thud noise.
I cant see anything else that would cause it?
If it is a suffix B box with original transfer case, it may be fitted with a much sought after 44/22 intermediate gear that has the larger shaft and bearing as used on later gear boxes. That particular gear was only used on "B" boxes.
.W.
Sorry for the confusion. It has got absolutely nothing to do with your problem. I just wanted to make you aware of a feature of a "B" box Transfer Case
The "B" box (transfer case) has got a lower low range ratio but with the advantage of a bigger ,stronger shaft than a 'C" on.(T/C)
.W.
I' m sorry I can't help you with that. By studying workshop and parts manuals you should be able to work things out.
.W.
No, the shot peening/blasting was on those splines near the gear. Mine sheared at those splines. Common problem I believe.
From a very distant memory going back to the 80's when I'd have done my last Ser 2a box, the g/box number was at the rear of the maincase at the top near where the top cover/selector cover/hsg is.????????
The shot peening will be very easy to see with a modified lay gear.
Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)
One other thing, if you assemble the box and rotate the mainshaft when in first and reverse gears I am certain you will feel the mismatch if it is still there with the new gears.
I had no probs feeling it when rebuilding Mini gearboxes in the 60's.
You could also put some "bearing blue" paste on the teeth and look at the swiping pattern when they mesh, but again, I have no doubt you'll feel the mismatch if present.
The mismatch is only miniscule so to speak and won't prevent the gears from turning as that is what APPEARS to be your problem.
At least we are all assuming that is your problem, but it does sound like it to me.
You may be able to get more definitive info from an LR (UK) website or talk to a UK Parts specialist who would be very familiar with this problem.
Sorry I am not of much help but the early 80's was the last time I played with such a box.
Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)
Of course you might not have the original gearbox; anything could have happened over the years!!
Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)
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