Series 2a and a bit

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Originally Posted by Mettalique

Removed all the front and cleaned the engine area and up around the steering box etc.
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All pretty good so removed the pedal boxes. I had a master cylinder for the brakes so changed that and took everything apart and greased what needed to be greased.
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But the clutch is stuck. Looks like the pin is seized in the box, I drove out the locator pin no problem just like the brake but it wouldn’t budge. Currently soaking it.
Replaced the front uni on the forward tail shaft. Only one that had any play.
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Obviously needed doing.
I found a couple of cracks in the firewall behind the throttle linkage. Looks like someone has brazed these up in the past which means I won’t be able to mig them. They also added a couple more bolts to hold it all on the RHS. I’ll have to think about that one.
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Then I tackled the only rust in the car. LF floor and up under the door stay tube. I’m guessing this is common coz I see panels for sale. But I don’t need something quite so big. Does anyone know the sheet metal thickness, I’m not really up with the sizes but looks like 1mm. Not really a big job just a bit fiddly.

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Another thing I have discovered which I knew partly is that I have two different size rims.
I have 3 of 5.5” 109” 272309 and 3 of 5” 88” 261601
Not really Ideal.
So where can I get either two 5.5” rims or maybe go to a 6” rim and get five. I have some 235/85 16 tyre that came in a deal to get some Wolf wheels for my Puma 90 so I’d like to use them.
Depending on what you read 5.5” is or isn’t enough to take these tyres. Any advice?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mettalique

Another thing I have discovered which I knew partly is that I have two different size rims.
I have 3 of 5.5” 109” 272309 and 3 of 5” 88” 261601
Not really Ideal.
So where can I get either two 5.5” rims or maybe go to a 6” rim and get five. I have some 235/85 16 tyre that came in a deal to get some Wolf wheels for my Puma 90 so I’d like to use them.
Depending on what you read 5.5” is or isn’t enough to take these tyres. Any advice?

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I have two 272309 rims in excellent condition - no rust, cold galled inside and ivory on outside.
However, if you want to use your 235/85 R16's, i'd suggest you look for a set of Disco I steel rims - they are 7" wide and will take the tubeless 235's OK. I've been running that combination on my 110 for decades.

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Originally Posted by Xtreme

I have two 272309 rims in excellent condition - no rust, cold galled inside and ivory on outside.
However, if you want to use your 235/85 R16's, i'd suggest you look for a set of Disco I steel rims - they are 7" wide and will take the tubeless 235's OK. I've been running that combination on my 110 for decades.

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Thanks Roger I’ll have a think about that. How much did you want for your rims?

Today I decided to have a closer look at the steering box and relay. I’d noticed one of the bolts holding the box in place wasn’t all the way in….well that’s a bit of an understatement
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Pulled that one out and cleaned it up on the wire wheel. Checked all the others, all loose and none had the tabs turned up so did that. When a mate and I were looking at it the other week we noticed the box moved quite a bit when the steering wheel was turned so this will at least help.
Moved on to the relay, bolts came out no problem but the relay is stuck. Notorious reputation in place obviously.
Tried heat and WD40, lots of it, read some forums and watched some YT but not much help except that quite a few say they’ve done them in situ. So maybe that’s the way I can do it.
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I also realised I could at least replace the seals so took the top plate off….looked like a lot of grease inside.
BTW I forgot to say that the relay is quite stiff so obviously not lubed well. Should they be fairly free with just a bit of drag?
Anyhow I then looked at the bottom one
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Some goose many years ago has fitted this back upside down. The seal does nothing when it sits on the bottom of the spline[emoji15][emoji35]
So the current situation is that I’ve left it with some degreaser puddled in the top with a drain tin underneath.
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I’m guessing it’s probably best to knock it out and let the spring go so I can at least clean it up. With it being exposed at the bottom like that for years it is probably rusted or full of muck or both. The joys of Land Rover[emoji51]

I though about this overnight. Went for a walk this morning, thought some more. Decided to knock the shaft out. The degreaser I’d left in last night hadn’t made its way though and I assumed it had been packed with grease. Yep I was right.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...6b5b6bd06f.jpg
Tied an Aldi bag around it before I knocked it through….useful for something.
Cleaned all the bits up, yes a bit worn but it will survive. More worn at the bottom because the seal would have let water and dust in.
Went to Repco this morning because around here most bearing suppliers don’t open Saturday but they had no seals in fact the young girl looked blankly at me when I told her the size…our computer doesn’t have imperial sizes [emoji15] no matter I’ll get them during the week
So turned my attention to getting the housing out.
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Drove some wedges in and had it jacked from the bottom. Large block of hardwood and a sledge hammer moved it a fraction
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So I bought out bigger tools
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Years ago I forged myself some podjie bars from 4140 and 5160 they come in handy from time to time.
This is a crazy design really. The housing is belled at the bottom but the hole it goes into is parallel so over the years all the road grit and dust fills the gap and packs itself in….hidden under the bolts of course so you can’t clean it out first. But then the only way to remove it is by pushing it up through all the #*§t and hope by adding more and more WD40 or Lanolin then it’ll make it slippery enough.
So you lever a little bit each side… I’m sure I walked a kilometre today just back and forwards.
At tea on day one the state of play is this.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ea06ebef22.jpg
I reckon I’ve moved it up about 1” with maybe 3.5 - 4” to go.
Time for one of these🥃

If you've moved it that far, you will get it!

When you work for a Land Rover dealer & have to explain to the customer why it cost so much to get it out , they think you are ripping them off. Had one once took three days off & on , lucky the guy owned the shop next door & would pop in a few times during the day to see how things were going.

Once you get it past the two side brackets you can start giving it a hit on the sides with a soft hammer to brake up the grains of sand & also rotating it back & forward & blowing plenty of air down the sides.

Now you've got it moving bend a piece of stout wire and you can scrape out a lot of the crud down the sides that's stopping it coming out.

Lubricate, scrape out dirt,lever.....eventually they come out.


Colin

Thanks guys, yes I’ve played this long game before on various things but it does test you. And yes I’m glad I’m not paying for the time. Stopping and looking at it helps😬 have a cuppa or 🥃 although too many…