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Thread: More problems

  1. #21
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    The 2a has been on the road again for a while, but started giving intermittent starting problems. I put it down to the battery, which I took out of the County over two years ago as it was failing to start the Isuzu on cold mornings. It has been not only failing to start intermittently, but the battery has clearly about had it, as it was down to under ten volts after standing for a few days.

    So I got a new battery on Tuesday and fitted it Wednesday. And it still refused to turn over.

    So this morning I pulled the starter off. It is possible to retrieve it from underneath without undoing the exhaust pipe - provided you get it in exactly the right position, and hold your mouth right.

    Getting it apart took a good part of the afternoon. I finally succeeded in starting the long through screws moving turning the head with vice grips after spraying WD-40 in the threaded hole from the other end, and heating the end plate at that end with a heat gun for ten minutes. I still have not managed to budge the screws on the brush holder - they are soaking overnight.

    The issue is the wires from the field winding soldered to the bolt that provides power have broken immediately adjacent to the bolt. I have not figured out how I'll fix that, but I'll manage.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    The 2a has been on the road again for a while, but started giving intermittent starting problems. I put it down to the battery, which I took out of the County over two years ago as it was failing to start the Isuzu on cold mornings. It has been not only failing to start intermittently, but the battery has clearly about had it, as it was down to under ten volts after standing for a few days.

    So I got a new battery on Tuesday and fitted it Wednesday. And it still refused to turn over.

    So this morning I pulled the starter off. It is possible to retrieve it from underneath without undoing the exhaust pipe - provided you get it in exactly the right position, and hold your mouth right.

    Getting it apart took a good part of the afternoon. I finally succeeded in starting the long through screws moving turning the head with vice grips after spraying WD-40 in the threaded hole from the other end, and heating the end plate at that end with a heat gun for ten minutes. I still have not managed to budge the screws on the brush holder - they are soaking overnight.

    The issue is the wires from the field winding soldered to the bolt that provides power have broken immediately adjacent to the bolt. I have not figured out how I'll fix that, but I'll manage.

    provided you get it in exactly the right position, and hold your mouth right.
    It's funny how Manuals never stress those points as it make it an easier job if you do.

    .

  3. #23
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Got the starter repaired, tested and refitted today. Went back in a lot quicker than coming out, probably mainly because I knew from getting it out how to maneuver it. Also had a bright idea and disconnected one end of the link between the throttle cross shaft and the bell crank below the carburetor. This made it a lot easier to get at the top stud and the terminal.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    Got the starter repaired, tested and refitted today. Went back in a lot quicker than coming out, probably mainly because I knew from getting it out how to maneuver it. Also had a bright idea and disconnected one end of the link between the throttle cross shaft and the bell crank below the carburetor. This made it a lot easier to get at the top stud and the terminal.


    A bit of the old ".Where there is a will, there is a way"

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