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Thread: Advice Req. 1968 Land Rover purchase

  1. #1
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    Advice Req. 1968 Land Rover purchase

    Hi all,
    I am a brand new member and also brand new to Land Rovers. I have recently come across a 1968 Series II that has had a camper installation and conversion to a Ford motor (when this was done is unknown). The vehicle isn’t running but I am willing to put in the work and money required to get it going and restored. I am just stuck currently on what I need to check and what I should pay. A Land Rover restoration company suggested to make sure the bulkhead has no rust and I know I should also check the chassis. I lost my dad a few years ago who would have known all and I am hoping to get any and all forms of advice with the very limited detail I can give/get so I can make the right decision.
    Please help me! Thank you in advance

  2. #2
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    I’d offer the same advice. The showstoppers for me are any rust in the chassis and the firewall. Check it all very carefully, especially the front and rear of the chassis. Other than that, everything else is easy to replace.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  3. #3
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    As above. The major showstoppers to your restoration will be the chassis and/or bulkhead (firewall) being badly rusted. These are not "real" showstoppers, as both new chassis and new bulkheads are available - but they are expensive, and the way shipping is these days could take a long time as well as a lot of money to get.

    There are repair sections available for the most commonly rusted parts of both, and these can be installed by anyone with fairly modest metalwork skills, a welder and an angle grinder.

    A possible showstopper could be the modifications to the vehicle from what it was when new. I suggest you discuss this with your local registration authority before you get too committed. It is usually very helpful if you have paperwork to prove it has been previously registered in that configuration. I am not in Qld, so can't be more specific.

    (Of course, if you plan to return it to original specifications, ignore this!)

    Before starting, get hold of, at a minimum, the relevant factory workshop manual and parts manual (see "SHOP" at the top of this page). When using these, note that your Landrover is most likely to have been Australian built, and there are detail differences from the manuals, especially in the timing of changes (mainly due to local content rules). These differences become more noticeable if you get one of the various unofficial workshop or restoration manuals, that tend to speak as if the home market (UK) models are the only ones that exist.

    Most Series Landrovers have had a lot of ad hoc alterations to the wring to improve on or expand the original Lucas wiring - some of these changes are improvements, many are not, and usually you have no idea what the wiring does - there is a lot to be said for getting a new wiring harness to start from scratch as it were.

    Hope this helps.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  4. #4
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    Thank you both so much! It is a bit of a drive to check it out, but good to know it is worth doing it again and checking these things (I think the seller is a bit over my emails). I was also going to try find the chassis number to check it a. wasn’t stolen and b. any history that comes from that. I took photos the first time I went of a bit of rust I saw and then some of the engine etc. I don’t think I am able to add them to my message though.. I’m still working out how to use this forum.
    Also, I know it would be incredibly hard to say, but he is asking 5k. Would these seem appropriate for a series II?
    I was semi okay with the cost until I found out it wasn’t running and he had placed the car in an area of the property called ‘the graveyard’ :S

  5. #5
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    Also John, Thank you for advising regarding getting the manual and the registration re the modifications! I didn’t think of these other than hoping the chassis number would give me some indications!

  6. #6
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    As already mentioned, chassis & bulkhead can cost a lot to replace.
    Both can be repaired if the rust isn't too bad.

    When was the engine last run ? What condition is the gearbox in ? These can also cost a lot of money to get sorted.

    Why did the owner stop using it ? Was there a mechanical failure that meant it was parked up ?

    Difficult to comment on the price without seeing the vehicle but prices have risen quite rapidly in recent years. What's the camper conversion, something home made ? Are the panels all straight ?
    As JDNSW mentioned, can you register it with the Ford motor in Tasmania ?

    Due to the rising value a lot of vehicles in 'graveyards' are being advertised at quite high prices. Ultimately they can be put back on the road but at what cost ?

    You might find you can't add photos until you have paid membership of the forum.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

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    Hi Colin,

    Thank you for your response. I will have to write up some questions to ask the guy and see what he knows. He appeared to tow away cars people no longer want on their property so I am unsure of how much history he knows. He did mention it going at some stage and then a teenager living in it on the property.

    He said the conversion looks factory made and when seeing it in person it did look legit, but I also could be wrong.

    I was thinking of also asking a mechanic friend of a friend for some questions to ask or things to specifically look for. I don’t want to be naive or bite off more than I can chew but I do really want to give this car a chance if I can

    So appreciative of all your advice and help!

    Thanks again!

  8. #8
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    The chassis number is on a plate on the bulkhead in front of the main gearlever. However, this may be missing or not off that vehicle, as it is only held by four screws. If it is Australian built, the chassis number is stamped on outside of the bracket that holds the spring shackle at the back of the LH rear spring. You are likely to need a bit of wire brushing or sanding to see it.

    Price is very, very, dependent on condition. A roadworthy and registered 1968 Landrover in not specially good condition and no special type or connections is probably worth $12 - 15,000.

    What I do when considering value would be to start deducting from this figure how much it is going to cost to get to this state (There is a floor value - for parts, of perhaps $500, depending on how straight the panels are). And the numbers start adding pretty rapidly! just for a start, registration and third party insurance (depends on location) maybe close to $1,000, five tyres, another thousand, battery $150, even before you start to do any "work" on it.

    You have to assume that you will have to replace all the brake and clutch hydraulics (cylinders, hoses, perhaps steel lines (they can rust), probably brake shoes and quite possibly drums. You will almost certainly need new seals on all hubs, differentials, and transfer case outputs. Expect to have to replace a good proportion of the lights, reupholster or replace seat cushions, maybe some glass. Likely some wheel studs need replacing - the wheel nuts can seize on the stud and screw the stud out, so there may be missing studs. If the thread is damaged (quite possible) hub should be replaced.

    All this without doing any "overhaul" type work. The engine may require overhaul - or replace with an original type. Either is going to run into thousands. Gearbox may need overhauling. Good chance the clutch needs replacing. Swivels almost certainly need attention, perhaps replacing, maybe wheel bearings, probably at least one or two tie rod ends.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  9. #9
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    Home made conversion or modified by a caravan manufacturer.

    Unique but you could spend a lot of money on it and find in the future that there is a very limited market for it.

    Best of luck,


    Colin
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by gromit; 24th July 2022 at 10:58 AM.
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  10. #10
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    Thank you everyone, especially Colin and John for the immense knowledge and help, I greatly appreciate it! I’ll likely go have a look again this weekend and ask/check all the things that you have suggested and make a decision from there.
    I really cannot thank you enough for the help and advice!!

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