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My comment was nothing to do with NOS vs. an alternative solution, more a explanation for the price difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lionelgee
It's great that Rovaparts offer a solution for people who don't have the facility to make it for themselves, their solution is exactly what I'd probably do if I needed that same part.
On a restored vehicle nobody would know what was used for the clutch pushrod unless they have x-ray vision.
Colin
Hello Colin,Quote:
Originally Posted by gromit
No worries at all about what you wrote. I was commenting on just needing a temporary fix so I might be able to get the vehicle moving again. If the part was going into a vehicle that was going to be registered I would be happy to consider the NOS or OEM parts.
If I knew what length - width and cutting angles for the part were I would take that information to a local bolt supplier and seek out a suitable high tensile bolt to adapt and re-manufacture the part myself. The problem with that is how all the vehicle came with was empty space where the push rod should have been. It is a bit hard to match a part when I don't know any of its dimensions. All in all considering that I get that part that will fill my needs by paying $15 instead of over a $100 will find me way out in front.
The other thing to consider is that the retailer claims that their $15 push rod is longer than the original and the extra length allows more precise clutch adjustment. I could be paying $100 - incorporating postage - to get a less than ideal result. Well this would be more important if it was going to be fitted to a registered vehicle. Since my purchase is only for a temporary outcome it amounts to $15 equals a bargain. For the difference between $15 and $100 I have been able to buy the Linkedin for Dummies book and the cork and carbon pads for my Makita 9924DB belt sander and still have spare change.
Fingers crossed that once I sort out the hydraulics aspect of the clutch all the mechanical components of the clutch inside the bell housing cooperate. If they don't well ... it has only cost me $15. Then it will be a tow straight to the disassembly pad and various parts will be going into storage. I might get my $15 outlay back when the unwanted parts get dropped off at the scrap metal recyclers. Then I will be even more out in front :0)
Kind regards
Lionel
It is very unlikely that the bits inside the bell housing will give any trouble, unless incorrectly assembled (this is fairly easy to do!). Where issues can arise is the coupling between the clutch fork shaft and the bell crank shaft, just where the shaft goes through the side of the bell housing. This coupling consists of a short length of pipe with two cross holes at right angles and secured to the two shafts with two pins. Any wear on the pins or the holes will show up as lost motion in clutch operation.
Both the pipe and the pins are hardened. The pins are sometimes replaced by bolts after the pin is lost. Unless the bolt fits the hole and is high tensile, this is a very temporary fix, and extracting the bent or broken bolt can be a real problem due to the restricted access. Use the correct pin! (Don't ask me how I know!)
Hello John,Quote:
Originally Posted by JDNSW
Thank you for your thorough explanation. My immediate thoughts went to a frozen or worn down to the rivets clutch plate a defective clutch pressure plate or something like a broken clutch fork. A new clutch kit is anywhere upwards from $400 which is an unwarranted outlay for a vehicle that will only be driven around a paddock until I am ready to disassemble it as a donor body for my other Series 2A short wheel base.
While the difference in things like a clutch push rod price valued at either $15 or $95 - is something significant when one changes from working 5 days a week and then down to 2 days per week. It brings a focus more on value for money and necessary expenditure. If the new push rod, flexible pipe and a previously purchased (while working 5 days per week) clutch slave cylinder do not make the car mobile again it would need to be pulled apart to work on the clutch components within the bell housing and I might as well keep going with the whole vehicle's disassembly.
Being able to just turn a key and have a vehicle move under its own power is more convenient than putting engines on stands and hooking up fuel lines and cables every time you go to keep it operational. It also means that the engine stand is not chewing up storage space in the shed.
One day I will learn how to write short posts - without describing what I had for breakfast!
Kind regards
Lionel
If you look at the manual, you will see that in the 2a (and 1 and 2) the clutch release mechanism inside the bell housing is almost entirely inside the gearbox and hence is oil lubricated, and should never give any trouble. Any problems inside the bell housing are almost certain to be either the pressure plate or the driven plate. The only issue I have ever had inside the bell housing in sixty years of driving these vehicles is a broken driven plate (was on a diesel in the Simpson). I have replaced worn plates but only when the engine or gearbox was out for other reasons - most recently to get at the welsh plug on the back of the engine!
Hello All,
With the mail contractor just delivering a parcel, I can now vouch that the push rod is indeed a cut off bolt with a nut welded to it. It also looks like one end of the bolt was ground down with a grinder while the bolt was rotated in a cordless drill. This is all good because I did not have any idea of the exact dimensions before it arrived.
I will see how things go on Friday - by which time I hope to have the Stromberg single barrel carburettor rebuilt. It would be good to not have the carburettor flood fuel over the inlet manifold and then drip over the outlet manifold that tends to get a bit hot! I am not going to worry about the lack of brakes. Just get the engine started and hopefully with the clutch hydraulics sorted I will be able to have a nice paddock bash.
One thing about Series Land Rovers, they never fail to put a smile on my face as I drive them around the paddock or do something constructive like haul loads between Point A and B with them! That is the whole idea about having hobbies isn't it. To bring enjoyment into one's life! Although at times it seems working on Series Land Rovers can be a source of significant frustration too.
Kind regards
Lionel
Hello All,
The attached diagram shows the measurement of 73.4 mm between the bottom of the clutch slave cylinder mounting flange and the bottom of the adjusting nut. What the brief description does not mention is where should the plunger be located within the bore when the measurement is taken. Is the measurement taken with the plunger - highly likely that I am not using the correct term for the part - is fully extended in it travel to be as close as possible to the flex pipe or is it when the plunger is hard against the circlip at the bottom of the bore when the slave cylinder is mounted to its bracket. The length itself of the push rod will vary according to where the plunger is located within the bore by 90 mm. This difference of 90 mm just might happen to cause some variance of getting the 73.4 mm that is measured by the calliper.
It would be good to be able to know where the plunger needs to be so I only have to make the adjustment once. I would greatly appreciate it if someone could let me know where the plunger should be to so I can get the job done properly with my first attempt.
The diagram was accessed 30th of September 2023 from, Land Rover Series II, IIA, & III Clutch, Slave Cylinder, & Throwout Assembly | Rovers North - Land Rover Parts and Accessories Since 1979
The folks at Rovaparts eliminated the need to read the description of D in the diagram. The nut is welded at the end of the threads so that is one adjustment that need not be worried about!
Well, while I wait for an answer to my question about where the plunger should be, I will go into the shed and grab the Stromberg carburettor for that vehicle's engine. I was going to fit the clutch parts first. Now that I have come across the need to post a question I will bring the carburettor parts up to my desk and click on Rob Teale's YouTube clip about how to rebuild Stromberg - Bendix for Holden's carburettors. La ... la ... la off I go to the shed... See ya!
Kind regards
Lionel
The distance is measured with no pressure in the system, in other words, with the slave cylinder piston more or less fully inside the cylinder. It will increase when the pedal is operated.
The system is self adjusting, once this dimension is set.
The actual dimension is not very critical, but note that as the clutch plate wears (and any wear occurs in the linkage) the dimension will increase, and less maximum movement becomes available, although this should never be an issue. If the adjust ment seems to be impossible, the reason will be either excessive wear on the coupling to the clutch shaft or the bell crank bearing, or the clutch shaft is installed in the wrong spline on the clutch fork (gearbox out job!).
Hello John,Quote:
Originally Posted by JDNSW
Thank you for your detailed reply. I just checked the measurements and shifted the position of the piston inside the bore. With the piston all the way up towards the 'A' in the attached photograph the distance is too short to match the suggested measurement. The piston just has to be slight push upward from the 'B' point in the photograph. As you suggest I will not bother attempting to position the piston so the distance matches the exact dimension. In the static position the piston finds its own way and sits closest to the rubber boot end of the slave cylinder.
It is my first encounter with fitting the 2A slave cylinder so I wanted to make sure I was fitting it correctly and just had to do the job once. I have bled a 2A system before. However, no new parts needed to be fitted at the time and I did not need to make any adjustments of linkages.
I figured that it is better to ask than for one to be sorry about the situation turned out. Thank you again for your reply, John.
A short time later.... thinking about it with the brake fluid correctly bled and the cylinder under no pressure the piston would naturally sit down towards the rubber boot anyway. It is just when I had the dry parts sitting on my desk that I thought there could be different places where the push rod could be measured from. Outside with hydraulic bled that option of different measurement points is eliminated. Perhaps - now this might just shock some readers ... I might have thought about it too much - tee-hee!
Kind regards
Lionel
Are they still in business?Quote:
Originally Posted by Lionelgee
I checked their site and got this:
"Dear Customers, as of 15 March 2024, we have acquired the long established business: Vintage Wiring Harness.We endeavour to continue the long tradition established by previous owners, of supplying the local and international market with the highest quality replacement wiring harnesses for classic and vintage vehicles (motorcycles and trucks included), and to improve on meeting customer expectations on delivering harnesses in a timely fashion.
The business has been relocated to Scarsdale, Victoria, and is undergoing a big transformation. During this period, our capacity to produce harnesses will be greatly impacted. There is a large backlog of orders which we are crawling through and appreciate the patience of those who have had little to no communication about the status of their orders. We can assure everyone that we are working diligently to meet the demand, and are focusing on long standing orders that need to be fulfilled."