If clearance on the hex head is the main problem, is there a reason you couldn't use Allen screws?
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If clearance on the hex head is the main problem, is there a reason you couldn't use Allen screws?
Only that BSF thread Allen screws seem to be in pretty short supply, along with hen's teeth. And the route of using UNF ones and cutting them off and rethreading them suffers from the fact that nearly all Allen screws are harder than ordinary bolts! And probably harder than my BSF die, or very close to.Quote:
Originally Posted by vnx205
Hello John,Quote:
Originally Posted by JDNSW
Could you please provide a written description of the dimensions and thread of the bolts you need? Earlier in this thread the identification of characteristics of the bolt changed a couple of times - so I am not sure which was the correct description.
I will test out my research skills and attempt to find a source of the right bolts.
Just out of interest - I am not sure if Land Rover put free wheeling hubs on their vehicles as an optional extra? Bearing this state of uncertainty in mind - where the bolts an original Land Rover part - or are the hubs aftermarket so came with their own bolts in a kit?
If they were an original Land Rover part - do you have the part number for them?
If they were an aftermarket item - do you know the name of the manufacturer and are any stamped or engraved numbers or letters on the hub itself?
If the answer is 'yes' to either original/aftermarket could you please post up the details.
A couple of photographs being attached to the post would be great too.
No guarantees. However, one never knows their luck in the big city. Forewarned with as much details means forearmed during search activities. More than one way to skin a cat ...
Kind regards
Lionel
I'll go get the details shortly. The hubs are Warn brand, and I'll see if I can find a number on them. They replace the standard drive flange and hubcap, and are a contemporary aftermarket add-on.
The hub consists of a cylindrical machined alloy body, the same diameter as the drive flange. This contains a drive dog, splined onto the driving stub axle with a standard nut, washer, and felt seal, which runs on a roller bearing inside the body and has on the outside end, a dog. On the outside of this is the operating mechanism. This has a body about twice the thickness of the drive flange, containing a bronze handle, which, when rotated about 150 degrees, slides a matching dog inwards to engage the drive dog on the stub axle using a multistart thread. This slides on a number of steel pins about 1/4", with half their diameter in grooves in the mechanism housing, and half in the sliding dog.
The operating mechanism housing is about 50% the same diameter as the main housing, and the outer 50% reduced in diameter to the pitch circle of the mounting bolts. The outer part has half cylindrical cutouts for the heads of the bolts.
The six mounting bolts, which secure both the main body and the outer body, with two standard hub gaskets, are four inches long with 3/4" threaded with 3/8" BSF thread and 9/16" hexagon heads. This is not the standard head size for a BSF bolt, and the cutout i the bodyfor the head is not large enough for a standard BSF head. With the 9/16" head, there is just enough clearance to use a thin wall socket. I don't have any ring spanners thin enough in the ring to fit, and you can't use an open end spanner. An Allen head would be perfectly OK.
I am pretty certain the hubs originate from the USA, and I suspect that the drive flange dimensions, and spline size, were directly copied by Rover from the original Jeep, so that the only change needed to fit the hubs designed for Jeeps to Landrovers would have been the bolts, where Rover used BSF thread instead of NF or NC, which Jeep would have used.
I think I paid $300 for the pair of hubs, many years ago - they came with a rolling chassis of a 2a 88! They have been on my 2a for at least twenty years.