33x10.5x15 tyres on a IIA 88"?

Personally, I would look for a MacNamara bolt operated diff lock, this will stiffen the diff centre up, so you are less likely to the crown wheel and pinion, also, you upgrade to 24 spline axles. If you hunt around, you might be able to pick one up for a couple of hundred bucks.

If you want to go to 33"s for extra clearance under the diff, then it is a waste of time if you put a Salisbury in, as you end up with about the same clearance as with 7.50x16's. My brother in law put a Salisbury in a Series 2 88, and put 255/85x16's BFG muddies on it, and was quite disappointed when my 86" series one would go everywhere he could, and further with 7.50x16 SAT's and a MacNamara bolt diff lock.

I belive maxi-drive axles are still available although maxi drives have closed. They are much, much better!

If used sympathetically (engaged IF traction is likely to be lost rather WHEN it is already lost) I belive a locker saves axles rather than giving them a harder time. They usually seem to break or stress fracture (then break for apparently no reason a bit later) when a wheel spins then suddenly gets grip.

Andrew

For the Maxi axles try
Hi’Tough Engineering
Ph: 07 5530 4123
Fax:07 5530 6312
Unit 3, No 7 Ryecroft St
Carrara, QLD, 4211

Awesome, thanks for the info everyone. For now I've decided to go with 235/85s (either BFG MT or Yoko MT+) on 16x6.5 Defender rims. Ideally I'd like to keep the Rover diffs, and use Maxi Drive axles and some sort of diff locks, preferably manually locked/unlocked.

G'day Dauntless :)

The major problem with the earlier Landrovers breaking axles were 2 reasons, 1- the axle is designed as the weak point (it broke before the diff or gearbox) 2- if the drive ends (axle end plates) are worn and there is play between axle spline & drive plate the shock load will shear the axle;) before you go to major modifications I would be upgrading the brakes from 10" inch SWB ones to 11"inch LWB ones, and the larger 1"inch bore Mastercylinder, which will give greatly improved stopping ability :) as these vehicle have 1950's type brakes which is well below the standard of the current cars/trucks the upgrade with booster will give efficient braking:)

cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by UncleHo

G'day Dauntless :)

The major problem with the earlier Landrovers breaking axles were 2 reasons, 1- the axle is designed as the weak point (it broke before the diff or gearbox) 2- if the drive ends (axle end plates) are worn and there is play between axle spline & drive plate the shock load will shear the axle;) before you go to major modifications I would be upgrading the brakes from 10" inch SWB ones to 11"inch LWB ones, and the larger 1"inch bore Mastercylinder, which will give greatly improved stopping ability :) as these vehicle have 1950's type brakes which is well below the standard of the current cars/trucks the upgrade with booster will give efficient braking:)

cheers

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Hey mate. I don't plan on doing any major mods to the vehicle. I do plan to upgrade to 11" brakes, as the brakes need to be done anyway. Did the 109's have a booster? Can I use a non boosted master cylinder with 11" brakes effectively? Is it all a direct fit?

G'day Dauntless :)

Yes, you can use the unboosted LWB Master Cylinder on the Shorty, it will stop it a lot better that it did the LWB ;) (Yes it is a direct fit) that is what I have on my LWB (the one in my avatar) you can also fit the Series 3 Boosted Master Cylinder,in single line form, your very late 2a should have a cut-away section in the right guard that accomodates the booster, you can change the entire brake pedal box assembly over, by just unbolting it from under the dash, (6 bolts) lift, 1/4 turn, and you have the complete pedal,M/cyl, booster assembly:D that's is what I have got to do in the coming months as I have recently aquired a Series 3 duel line boosted system to fit into mine, a little more work to fit as mine is a 68 and I have to change the guard top to the cut-away type :)

cheers

OK thanks. This is what it looks like now:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...008/04/543.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...008/04/544.jpg

G'day Dauntless :)

You have the cut-away guard :D that is the enlarged cutout to take the booster, That is a nice original unmolested engine bay:D as I can remember these when new, it is interesting to note that the SWB hasn't got the Anti-Pollution stuff that was fitted to the LWB's but has the Ser 3type radiator, overflow bottle, and windscreen washers as required by the then ADR's (does it have reversing lights??)

You may have to move the existing Master Cylinder around on it's bracket so that you have space to fit the booster brake assy, and block off the brake fluid outlet on it, or you could change the Clutch Master Cylinder to the Series 3 type with it's own reservoir:) (that could also come from the donor vehicle) it' the same size but it just has it's own built in reservoir.

This looks like a very nice original vehicle and would make a very nice restored truck and daily driver, it is hard to find one as original as that now, and so straight too, with your tyre choice you could go to the wider tyres, but on a SWB you will get a bit of "Bump Steer" it might be worth trying 7.50 x 16 LWB tyres on 5.5 rims (272309) as the SWB's had 5.00 rims with 6.00 X 16's on then from new, unless 7.50's were requested:)


cheers

Hey mate.

OK, that is good news. It doesn't have reversing lights unfortunately. I have just bought 16x6.5 Defender rims, and will fit 235/85's to them. They aren't much wider than 7.50's so I shouldn't have any problems there?