Try a gas-fitter for copper tube; my local bloke carries all sizes and I think 1/8th is the size they use for pilot-light tubes. If you end up buying copper, anneal it after you have cut it to size, so that engine vibrations don't crack it prematurely,
Cheers Charlie
Thanks Pete, Charlie,
Why didn't I think of the Live Steamer blokes? I work in a hobby shop and read their mags afterall! Gas fitters are probably easier to find locally though.
Good point about annealing the copper, steel is preferable for this reason I suppose and part of the reason that copper brake piping isn't allowed.
To this end, silver soldering a short section of brass tube to fix the break wouldn't be advisable would it? It'd be a localised stress point that'll cause problems further down the road I suppose.
I can't see any problem with silver-soldering the broken one,
Cheers Charlie
Running like a swiss watch today :D
Solex carby needs rebushing on the throttle spindle, it weeps a little bit.
The main jet had some crud in it, so cleared all three jets to be sure.
I would like to acquire a second Solex that I can rebuild as a spare.
Timing needs a check, just found my Dad's old school neon timing light so will give that a whirl sometime.
There oil feed pipe between head and block leaks, its missing the upper copper washer. Need to source one.
Oil is dripping onto the manifold somewhere.
Repaired vacuum pipe works a treat, short bit of brass tube, yorkshire flux, soft soldered. Forgot to flush it though :eek:
Air to go in tyres check/replace all fluids.
Neighbours must love me, they were hanging their clothes out to dry downwind of where I was starting and tuning the thing.
Tomorrow will attack the dreaded electrics and have a squiz at the County fearbox.
The speedo is in MPH, will it matter if I use oversize (7.50R16) tyres and have an incorrect speedo, considering I wouldn't have the foggiest idea of what my speed will be anyway? (have to get a cigarette lighter socket for the GPS speedo ;)
Of course, having said that, I can't get rod of a miss. Idle is fine, fairly quiet and smooth.Quote:
Originally Posted by isuzutoo-eh
Put the throttle down and it picks up alright, for maybe 5 seconds usually until I put load on it, then one cylinder starts missing. I've rechecked tappets, cleaned and gapped the spark plugs. The plugs were all sooty from running rich. All four are getting spark as otherwise it would miss at all throttle openings.
Any advice?
When it isn't missing, its like a sewing machine:)
Check -Quote:
Originally Posted by isuzutoo-eh
Condition of HT leads
Distributor cap tracking
Compression leak, possibly sticking valve
Leak between intake manifold and head
Sick coil, points or condenser
Leaky throttle spindle
Roughly in that order.
The miss under load is more likely to be an ignition problem, as the charge is harder to ignite under load.
John
Thanks for those pointers John, I will work through them.
I do know that the throttle spindle leaks. I didn't think that'd cause just one cylinder to miss though?
No, not likely - but are you sure it is the same one missing?. If it is, it has to be something that affects one cylinder in particular. This means either a compression leak, an air leak at that port on the intake manifold, or, most likely, an ignition fault. This is most likely a HT lead, but could be a cracked or tracking distributor cap, or a loose top bearing in the distributor that gives a short points opening for that cylinder (unlikely).Quote:
Originally Posted by isuzutoo-eh
Unless almost new, I would be inclined to replace all the distributor leads - they are not that expensive!
John
The plugs may have been sooty from the engine running cold. Were they sooty after a run with the engine at operating temperature?Quote:
Originally Posted by isuzutoo-eh
I agree with John; spark plugs can work well at idle but play up at faster speeds as the gas pressure increases in the cylinder. Replace the plugs with something decent such as NGK, if you haven't already, and then work your way backwards towards the distributor and coil if the symptoms persist,
Cheers Charlie
G'day ladies and gentlemen, blokes and sheilas,
Series 3 Sam came around today to lend a hand and offer his experience to the cause. We got a good bit of work done but still, the engine misses.
So far, I have replaced the HT leads, the coil, condenser, points and spark plugs. Sam 'borrowed' his known good dizzy cap, points and rotor button onto it as well in case that was the problem. None of these changed anything. Often, after tinkering with the ignition, it would run nicely, until it was revved up or put under load. Then if nothing was touched and it was restarted, it'd still miss.
I replaced the gasket above the spacer on the Solex, the spacer was found to be cracked so I gasket gooed it over the crack and on both surfaces when reassembling. All surfaces were clean, but I didn't check for warping.
We ran the engine and sprayed penetrating spray (and deodorant :p) around the inlet and exhaust manifolds, and around the carby, to see if it was sucking it in. It wasn't. Spraying down the throat didn't change the miss, so its not running lean. Running with the choke on the first position upped the revs but didn't cure the miss either.
Tappets are all so close to 10 thou clearence if I adjust them, i'm likely to lose accuracy.
The studs on the exhaust manifold are pretty ancient and rusty. One is missing. The spray test didn't show it was sucking or blowing past though. I have new studs, will pick up nuts tomorrow to fit them.
The carby isn't leaking past the throttle spindle any more.
I will pull the plugs tomorrow to see if it is just the one cylinder every time or if its any one cylinder at a time.
So at this point in time, the possible problems are:
1. buggered distributor body
2. sticking valve
3. blowing past manifold gaskets
4. cracked carby spacer causing problems
It would have been faster and cheaper to put the diesel in :(