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Thread: My first series Landy

  1. #21
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    well, with a million other things having priority over Doc, it wasn't until last weekend that I checked the oil and water, pulled the pugs and put some diesel down the holes. After a little soak, dropped a charged battery in and pressed to go button.

    he cranked over well.

    Ignition on and a spark plug resting on the head to check we had spark. All good. I noted a pretty decent fuel leak on the hose to the carb, the pump looked like it worked.

    Plugs in, crank. Nup. Crank and pump the accelerator, nup.

    A bit of fuel down the carb ( leaks from the accelerator pump ), crank, Vrooom!

    But it wouldn't feed through the leaky carb and stopped after the swig of fuel down the throat ran out. A couple more trys of that with the same result. Not bad really, so I planned on getting a carb kit for the solex.

    Today, My neighbour had his newly regd, club plated, Humber , ExMil, 4WD truck out for a spin. When he got home, he popped over to see how my old landy was going. I told him the story above, then popped a bit of fuel down the carb and cranked it just to show him where it is at. And Doc just kept running. not one drop from the carb of fuel line. I guess being wet for a week sealed everything up.

    He just idled away, pretty steady with a faint, intermittent miss. Oil pressure 50 psi (I'll be interested to see what this does with fresh oil). Over 15 minutes idling, the temp got to 65 deg C. No bubbles in the return hose to the radiator, But I noticed the rad cap seal is stuffed. The miss got worse as it ran, I guess plugs and points are in order. Maybe just timing though.

    If I get the brakes and clutch sorted, he'll be rolling.

    I think I've found a new bit of enthusiasm

  2. #22
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    I'd do a rough compression check (turn over using crank) to make sure the miss is not due to a leaky valve, and with this in mind, check the tappet clearances.

    As well as the plugs and points, I would think about new high tension leads - they are probably getting pretty long in the tooth, and if so these can make a big difference.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #23
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    "I would think about new high tension leads - they are probably getting pretty long in the tooth"

    the ones in there look very 1960's style

    compression test tomorrow, I have some 5yo bosch leads laying about I might try

  4. #24
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    Good stuff!
    [B][I]Andrew[/I][/B]

    [COLOR="YellowGreen"][U]1958 Series II SWB - "Gus"[/U][/COLOR]
    [COLOR="DarkGreen"][U]1965 Series IIA Ambulance 113-896 - "Ambrose"[/U][/COLOR]
    [COLOR="#DAA520"][U]1981 Mercedes 300D[/U][/COLOR]
    [U]1995 Defender 110[/U]
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  5. #25
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    compression ratios

    9, 7.5, 7.0, 7.5

    not so good

    Plugs sooty

    Battery too flat to restart and my lad has my charger at his place

    A little work to do here I think

  6. #26
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by procrastination inc View Post
    compression ratios

    9, 7.5, 7.0, 7.5

    not so good

    Plugs sooty

    Battery too flat to restart and my lad has my charger at his place

    A little work to do here I think
    Before you consider pulling the head off, listen in the manifolds to see if there is compression leaking from either intake or exhaust valves. Also check tappet clearance.

    The sooty plugs may simply reflect that it has not run enough to get hot, or may mean the plugs are the wrong ones, or may mean the carburetter is running rich, likely if it is a Zenith (do a search for problems and fixes).

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  7. #27
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    My Army Fire Tender has that fill in section behind the bumper, but my 109GS does not

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