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Thread: 2.25 diesel valve stem seals, advice pleeeease!!

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
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    Quote Originally Posted by chazza View Post
    I haven't heard of the oil method before but I have heard of people using compressed air to hold the valve up and also synthetic twine.

    Disconnect the battery first - accidental turning of the starter during this operation might damage the engine badly.

    With the twine method do as Dave does, then feed the twine - the sort that is synthetic, about 3mm in diameter, not furry and won't drop bits - into the cylinder through the spark plug, or glow plug hole. When a goodish length is piled on top of the cylinder use the starting handle to carefully ease the piston up as high as it will go. If enough twine has been fed into the cylinder it will bear on the valve face and hold it up. Make sure that a good lengthy-tail is hanging out of the head, so that it can be retrieved and to avoid all of it disappearing inside the cylinder. Advantages are: no mess; a positive lock; no leak-down; no fear of the engine running on oil.

    I also use this method on my chainsaw to seize the motor, whilst undoing the nut on the centrifugal clutch, for servicing of the bearing behind it. On a 2-stroke engine the piston needs to be quite high before inserting the twine, so that it doesn't get caught in the ports,

    Cheers Charlie

    the twine trick wont work on a 2.25 diesel (unless your combustion chambers have fallen out). and I dont trust the compressed air.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Kuranda FNQ
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    I am starting to think it might be better in the long run to take the head off and give it to the professionals to get it checked, anyone got an idea on what this might be worth, if all well of course and no diss-assembly is required besides putting in the seals.

    If it would pass roadworthy I would let it go but it wont unless I get at least the seals fixed up.

    I don't know the history of this motor, it blows clouds of blue at startup, then continues to blow intermittently until warm, and I mean normal operating temp. Even then under load there is blue but not lots.

    I will do a compression and leakdown test as blknight suggested. Thing is the panels are not back on the front end and if there is motor work to do I want to do it before I give myself access problems!!

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
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    put the wings back on..

    with the exception of a couple of plugs on the back of the engine and the clutch/crankshaft(and even then if your willing to remove the gearbox) you can rebuild the 2.25 in situ including replacing the crank main bearing shells)

    the only thing you cant do with the radiator in place is pull the camshaft out.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    1,481
    Total Downloaded
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    I replaced my stem seals without using oil, air or rope. Quick and clean.

    Aaron.

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