Oils ain't oils . . .

about to put either Penrite Mild EP or Castrol EPX 80W/90 in my box/transfer/diffs, depends which is in stock at SuperCheap Auto (staff discount :D)

I use HPR30 in my 202 and will most likely be running HPR30 in the rover's 2.25P in the next oil change - the only good thing about running GTX in the landy at the moment is that it is cheap to replace when it leaks out/burns as much as my old truck does hahaha

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Originally Posted by rick130

What vehicle ?
(I'm guessing a Series with the list you've posted, but you haven't indicated)

I would use a GL-5 spec lube in a diff, IMO a GL-4 doesn't have enough EP/AW additives, even though a Rover diff is a spiral bevel style CWP. Use a GL-5 particularly if the vehicle tows or is used hard off road.
In Penrite Mild EP's favour is that it's pretty a pretty heavy oil compared to a modern 75 or 80W-90 and with gears thicker often does provide more protection all things being equal but I'd use a 14.5cst GL-5 additised oil over a 24cSt GL-4 in a diff any day.

I also think that Penrite Mild EP is far too heavy for gearbox use.
It's an SAE110 viscosity oil (at the heavy end of the old SAE 90 scale at 23.8cSt @100*C, which almost pushes it into an SAE140. The SAE 90 oils now only go to 18.5 cSt, SAE 110 to 24 cSt and SAE 140 from 24 cSt to 32.5 cSt @ 100*C)
I reckon if an 80W-90 was originally specified for a manual gearbox, use a modern 75W-90 and have better gear changes, and most all dual rated GL-4/5's are yellow metal safe. If in doubt, look for a copper corrosion # on a TDS and if states 1a or 1b it's fine.
The Penrite Mild EP would be fine in the t/case, you just lose a little fuel economy.

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Maybe the tread will give some indication

RICK ! You want to get that damned bug off ya post :mad:.....just spent 5 minutes trying to get the crawler off my screen before I realised it wasn't on my screen....:o :p

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Originally Posted by RobHay

RICK ! You want to get that damned bug off ya post :mad:.....just spent 5 minutes trying to get the crawler off my screen before I realised it wasn't on my screen....:o :p

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ROFL @ U ROB

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Originally Posted by peterg1001

Thanks Rick, sounds like good advice.

The big advantage of those Castrol products is that they're all available at the local auto shop, off the shelf, in 1L and 5L sizes.

Now all I have to do is go and spend the thick end of $200 to get them all . . .

Peter

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Buy it by the 20L drum. It works out much cheaper, and you will have some left over for next time.

Aaron.

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Originally Posted by RobHay

Maybe the tread will give some indication

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I worked that out after posting it Rob. :angel:

I blame going down through 'New Posts' and not looking at which forum I'm in :p

BTW, you didn't use the Mortein on the screen, did you :lol2:

I have heard talk about possible negative effects of using modern oils in engines, because of certain additives that were included or left out.

Trying to look into it, i found this page on the Penrite website.

Penrite Oil Company website home of Penrite lubricants

Unfortunately, my own thickheadedness is slowing me down to reaching a conclusion.

Does anyone know much about this idea? Penrite Australia offer 'vintage-style' oil to suit classic cars, but would it make much (if at all?) difference to a petrol 2.25?

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Originally Posted by series3

I have heard talk about possible negative effects of using modern oils in engines, because of certain additives that were included or left out.

Trying to look into it, i found this page on the Penrite website.

Penrite Oil Company website home of Penrite lubricants

Unfortunately, my own thickheadedness is slowing me down to reaching a conclusion.

Does anyone know much about this idea? Penrite Australia offer 'vintage-style' oil to suit classic cars, but would it make much (if at all?) difference to a petrol 2.25?

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If you are concerned about the lack of ZDDP in API SM petrol oils, particularly for flat tappets/lifters, use a dual rated diesel oil (eg CI-4/SL or CJ-4/SL)
Far and away the best bang for the buck in terms of wear protection and cleanliness in an older engine IMO.

I doubt if anyone would ever use a 5W-30 oil in an old Series donk, but never, ever use a GF-4, API SL oil in an older engine except for emergency top ups.
They use dramatically reduced levels of old style EP/AW additives and have a low HTHS viscosity for fuel efficiency gains in modern engines (where they work very well) but aren't suitable at all for old style cams and lifters.

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Originally Posted by rick130

If you are concerned about the lack of ZDDP in API SM petrol oils, particularly for flat tappets/lifters, use a dual rated diesel oil (eg CI-4/SL or CJ-4/SL)
Far and away the best bang for the buck in terms of wear protection and cleanliness in an older engine IMO.

I doubt if anyone would ever use a 5W-30 oil in an old Series donk, but never, ever use a GF-4, API SL oil in an older engine except for emergency top ups.
They use dramatically reduced levels of old style EP/AW additives and have a low HTHS viscosity for fuel efficiency gains in modern engines (where they work very well) but aren't suitable at all for old style cams and lifters.

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I would point out that Series 2/2a/3 four and six cylinder engines have roller tappets, so I don't think your comment about "old style cams and lifters" is relevant although I think it applies to Series 1 engines.

John

In that case John later spec oils would be fine in the four and six using roller lifters, but not in the older V8's which use conventional style lifters.