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I had the same decision to make with my 53 Willys jeep and was told that electric pumps rather pulling than pushing, so I put the filter between tank and pump. However, I stupidly put it up high(next to pump)and vertical, and it drains dry when the car isn't running and the pump has to pump air for a few seconds before fuel gets to it. I'm going to move it lower and see if that helps. Sorry if this is of no help at all:redface:
Having decided that the best option was to put a 100-150 micron between the pump and the tank, and a 10 micron between the pump and the carby, the next job was to find some.
As others have pointed out, there's a dearth of information about fuel filters in the market.
I located some 150 micron filters on ebay, originally for a Briggs and Stratton mower engine. I'll give them a go, they may not handle the fuel volume needed for a 2.25 engine, but it's worth a try.
After calling Ryco's tech line, it turns out that all Ryco nylon bodied filters are 18 micron. The Z202 metal body is 10 micron, and costs about $29 at Super Cheap. I might try ebay again, there are some in the US going at $US9, so if postage is manageable I'll try a couple of those.
Peter
Keep in mind that filters are not sieves, and that micron rating is usually at 50% capture efficiency.Quote:
Originally Posted by peterg1001
Your 150 micron B&S filter is only 150 micron for its rated application. If you flow more fuel through it than designed for the micron rating will likely decrease.
Thanks Ben.
My guess it would have to be at least as good as the completely missing copper gauze at the bottom of the fuel pickup pipe :)
Peter
While generally a good article, caution needs to be used when applying it to a Series Landrover. Firstly, the fuel pumps on Series Landrovers are not cooled or lubricated by the fuel, and will not be damaged if run dry, and they will pump petrol vapour, although not at a rate high enough to keep the engine running. And they will not cause cavitation or be damaged by it.Quote:
Originally Posted by peterg1001
Further, Series Landrovers do not have injectors. What they do have is jets in the carburetter, and in reality, the filters need only be fine enough to prevent anything getting in to the carburetter large enough to block a jet. A water trap is also essential, as water drops will block jets.
John
Well it has been a few weeks now since I fitted the filter between the tank and the pump and it has been good. The flat spot was more in relation to some idiot (me) touching the idle mixture screw instead of the idle screw so that just needs a bit of tweaking to eliminate it.
The filter I used was just a cheap ryco $10 thing but in reality it is to stop a 1950's solid petrol engine from having problems not an F1 so it should be fine I hope.
So after that problem was licked I decided to try and stop the oil leaks from my sump gasket. When I got the gasket off it looked as though someone had previously tightened it up with a ratchet gun as there were massive hills and valleys on the mating surface and it was nowhere near flat. I had to hammer it out till it was almost flat to within a mil or two. I then bought a new gasket and used some permatec black to seal it all up and hey presto no oil leaks from the gasket but...........
Now that the sump gasket isn't leaking I am getting oil blowing out of the filler cap and all over number 1 and 2 spark plugs and leads plus all over the side of the engine. I am a bit worried now that the compression rings on the pistons are worn and I'm getting blow back, when i looked down the filler I could see oil swirling around and it smelt of petrol. My guess is that the pressure would escape through the sump gasket before but now that it can't it blows up the filler.
I am doing a proper compression test on the weekend to see what i come up with. Does any1 know what sort of figures I should be getting from the test, i did a cold test, I couldn't wait, and i got 90's and 100's for my 2.25 pet.
The oil I am using at the moment is Penrite HPR40 25W/70.
Has anyone come accross this oil filler problem before?
Thanks for listening :)
My book says:Quote:
Originally Posted by matpoli
7:1 compression ratio - 145 lb
8:1 CR 160-170 lb
with the engine hot.
I would ensure that the carankcase ventilation is working properly - early engines had a breather in the filler cap and a second one on top of the rocker cover. both should be cleaned and oiled.
Later engines had a sealed cap on the filler, and the breather on top of the rocker cover connected to the air intake above the carburetter, In addition, they had a positive crankcase ventilation valve connected via a pipe and hoses between the filler pipe and the manifold below the carburetter.
If the ventilation system is not working, usually due to being tampered with, pressure will build up in the crankcase, and will get out somewhere. On the other hand, even if the crankcase ventilation is working, there is a limit to how much it can handle, and once the rings have worn enough, the excess pressure will start chucking oily fumes out. I fear this may be your situation, but the compression check, warm and having run to put oil on the rings, will tell the story. There is a possibility that it is a single damaged piston, but again, the compression figures will show this.
John
Later engines had a sealed cap on the filler, and the breather on top of the rocker cover connected to the air intake above the carburetter, In addition, they had a positive crankcase ventilation valve connected via a pipe and hoses between the filler pipe and the manifold below the carburetter.
John[/QUOTE]
My Engine has a breather on the rocker cover and a breather on the filler cap also but I have a stromberg and not the standard carby fitted so the rest of the system would be adhoc. Looking at the figures provided by chazza below should give me some kind of benchmark.
My book says:
7:1 compression ratio - 145 lb
8:1 CR 160-170 lb
with the engine hot.
I will be doing the compression test on the weekend and that will give me some indication as to where I stand for sure but I think she is rooted.
Now I have to weigh up whether to spend $$$ on my landy or get my HZ V8 kingswood going again with the $$$.
Thanks for all your help guys, I'll let you know what the result of the test is on the weekend :)
Well I completed the compression test correctly in that this time the test was completed with a warm engine and the throttle open fully, the results are tabulated below.
Cyl 1st 2nd
1 110 120
2 110 123
3 115 130
4 110 120
The first test was completed dry and the second test was completed wet (with 4 squirts of oil from a can shot directly into the spark plug hole).
I also checked my manual and my engine as far as I can tell is the 7:1 variant which means the factory compression should be 145lb so it's not too bad.
Strangely no more oil has come out of the breathers and after changing the spark plugs the little miss that I has is gone. I can rest easy again, i can't relax when my machine isn't 100%
Also to satidfy my curiosity, does anyone mind getting a torch and looking into their filler cap while the car is warm and running to tell me what is happening in their engine? Mine has oily mist swirling around inside it.