Thread: 2.25lt Aluminium Heater Plug

i use brass for the side plugs and alloy for the rear larger block heater hole plug.

i generally use a cold chisel to knock a hole in it then a shifter on the chisel to unscrew the plug..

works well...

i found it is a lot easier to replace the block heater plug than the others so that why i use the alloy plug there.

have a look at the link below

https://www.davesitshop.com/emporium...inchbscon.html

Originally Posted by LandyAndy

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I was once told they are a sacraficial anode and not to use a brass fitting as other alloy components will corrode,ie water pump.
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Andrew

I can't think of any (other) alloy bits in the 2.25 cooling circuit, and certainly the water pump isn't. But I think they are sacrificial, to try and preserve the cast iron bits. And brass plugs will sacrifice the cast iron - unless it really is brass not bronze, when it may dezincify itself (depends on composition).

John

Thanks for all the replies, I''l update with some photos and how it goes when I get it done.
I did look at removing the left guard but this plug is back beside the foot well area and taking the guard off wouldn't give you enough access by itself.
In a perfect world I would take off the guard and the exhaust manifold and maybe the inlet manifold but going through the footwell is right where you need to be and an easy access plate to make up.
I will get a 1" BSP bung and hope that it will be the correct thread. Those brass ones look awesome but once it's in it will never need to come out again.

I'm a little confused with what's best here. When I had to replace the three core plugs in the side of the engine a while back more than one supplier said not to use the brass versions as they would not act as a sacrificial. Am I misunderstanding something here?
cheers,
D

Originally Posted by Wired1

I will get a 1" BSP bung and hope that it will be the correct thread. Those brass ones look awesome but once it's in it will never need to come out again.

The brass plugs that Dave is offering are 1" BS Conduit. These are the two under the manifolds. This is not the plug that you are currently replacing.

Aaron

Originally Posted by Dark61

I'm a little confused with what's best here. When I had to replace the three core plugs in the side of the engine a while back more than one supplier said not to use the brass versions as they would not act as a sacrificial. Am I misunderstanding something here?
cheers,
D

You understand correctly. They don't all need to be aluminium to offer protection. Replacing some with brass, and keeping the easier to change plugs in aluminium will still offer protection.

Aaron

Originally Posted by Aaron IIA

You understand correctly. They don't all need to be aluminium to offer protection. Replacing some with brass, and keeping the easier to change plugs in aluminium will still offer protection.

thats it in a nutshell

and the only ones you can buy off the shelf are the smaller metric ones in alloy for the series iii block which need heaps of sealant to hold them in an earlier block and then leak as soon as the sealant cracks or degrades.

which is why i did the brass shouldered ones so they fit no matter what shape the threads are in, they will tighten up, use a small amount of sealant and never need to come out.

as long as you use an alloy plug in the much easier to access block heater hole you will only need to change that plug periodically. i carry one in the vehicle. they cost $2 at most hardware shops...

that said, the setup i have in madge has been there a while now but i religiously use coolant and demineralised water.

That makes sense.
Thanks Gents.
cheers,
D