Another 2a build thread

Ah, no - bench test so no sender.


So... I opened it and checked it out inside.

There is continuity through the coil around the bi-metallic strip but the strip is not getting hot enough to bend so no open/close circuit is happening at all.

I connected a thermocouple to the outside of the coil and there is no heat coming off that area at all.

The resistance through the coil suggests that the unit should be drawing 1 amp when 'on' but all I am seeing is 280mA

Strange... Later on tonight I'll build an electronic one and see how that works.

The bottom line is: all I want is 10V at the meter terminals.

In other news I appear to have found the friendliest tyre place in Canberra. They did an excellent job for me today and I now have 4 fully inflated tyres (two with new tubes) on the vehicle.

Also, I have tested all my wiring at the back of the vehicle and all lights work as designed.

I am much chuffed!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by drifter

Ah, no - bench test so no sender.


So... I opened it and checked it out inside.

There is continuity through the coil around the bi-metallic strip but the strip is not getting hot enough to bend so no open/close circuit is happening at all.

I connected a thermocouple to the outside of the coil and there is no heat coming off that area at all.

The resistance through the coil suggests that the unit should be drawing 1 amp when 'on' but all I am seeing is 280mA

Strange... Later on tonight I'll build an electronic one and see how that works.

The bottom line is: all I want is 10V at the meter terminals.

In other news I appear to have found the friendliest tyre place in Canberra. They did an excellent job for me today and I now have 4 fully inflated tyres (two with new tubes) on the vehicle.

Also, I have tested all my wiring at the back of the vehicle and all lights work as designed.

I am much chuffed!

---

Sounds as if there is a bad connection at the contacts - a brush up with a points file should fix it. Although it could be another bad contact - from memory these things are well supplied with compression joints between different metals that Joseph Lucas (or Smiths) hoped would give good electrical contact for the life of the vehicle - which to be honest, they probably did not expect to be as great as the 40-50 years on this one.

John

True on the expected lifetime ;)

I did run a points file across the points but it made no difference.

Amazing how much easier the vehicle is to push around with 4 inflated tyres!

Damn near killed me the first time with both rears flat. Was a doddle - even though slightly uphill - this time. I reckon it has added nearly 6" of 'lift' to the rear end, too.

This weekends silly questions concern wipers or, more specifically, wiper motors.

The vehicle being restored has 2 wipers, individually controlled, under the windscreen.

One of them only swings through about 20º so I thought, that would be easy - I will pull it apart and clean and regrease everything - except it won't come apart.

There is a block (mounting block) with 2 recessed nuts holding the block in place. One of the nuts came out - the other won't.

So.... plan #2

The donor car has a single motor in the far left of the 'dashboard'. It has the 'cable' assy that drives 2 fittings on the bulkhead under the windscreen.

Question #1: assuming that I can cut the hole in the correct place in the top edge of the dashboard ledge and further assuming that I drill the holes in exactly the right place UNDER the windscreen mount and above the vents; will this work OK? I am figuring on filling the holes in from the old wiper mounts (just under the windscreen glass).

Question #2: The wiring for the wiper motor from the donor machine would suggest that this is a single speed motor. Have any of you put a two speed motor in here? Is there a real requirement to do this?

Thanks in advance.

John

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JDNSW

Sounds as if there is a bad connection at the contacts - a brush up with a points file should fix it. Although it could be another bad contact - from memory these things are well supplied with compression joints between different metals that Joseph Lucas (or Smiths) hoped would give good electrical contact for the life of the vehicle - which to be honest, they probably did not expect to be as great as the 40-50 years on this one.

John

---

I managed to pick up a brand new voltage stabiliser today - the last of his stock and still at the old price of $22. He says he will order new ones but they will be around $40 or so. This one is in a box marked Land Rover original spares and is stamped LUCAS so we will see how well we go with that later on tonight.

Regarding your question 2 of post 34, my Dad had a series 3 which he wired through a light dimmer switch to give infinitely variable wiper speeds. Seems a better proposition that a 2 speed to me and since you have all the other bits, sourcing the dimmer is easy too.

I am still looking at that idea, Mark. Thanks.

Not a huge amount of progress on the vehicle in the past month.

The wiring is complete now.
The lights are all working (with new replacements ready for when I get annoyed - er - if any break).
New dashboard is installed.
Wipers are installed, motor installed - all works.
Demister hoses are installed. Heater is awaiting stripdown and rebuild.

New parts arrived today - most of them are for later on in the project:

new brake master cylinder
new brake flexible hoses
new rubber boots for gear/transfer/4wd levers
rubber inserts for bell housing (both sides)
bag full of screws and clip-on 'nuts' for attaching the flooring
new fuel cap that will actually not rattle
locking mechanism for fuel cap

paint for roof area
all new window rubbers (13 metres of it! )
sealant to form a gasket between the rooftop and the sides (I have a little leak)

that's about it...

time for me to get busy I guess :D

G'day Drifter :)

What you had as your blinker in those first pics, well it was the old 3 pin flasher can with a Falcon type 2 pin connected to it,:) so if you had replaced the 3 pin unit with a new 3 pin the blinkers would probably work, it has been a few years since I have seen a 3 by 2 piggy back :D the main problen with the old style wiper motors, is that the brushes wear out, and or the little insulation block where the wires pass through the body breaks,both are available from such people as KB Classic Spares in Qld,(not on internet,(07)54 944 221 he is the Lucas man)

cheers

Thanks UncleHo

The flasher unit - hmmm - yeah - I had no luck with it on the bench - I am guessing my load wasn't enough to trigger it - so I put it in the car anyway because it had a mounting lug on it and was, therefore, easier to mount in the space at the back of the dashboard. Both of the other units I had here (including a new one) didn't have mounting attachments.

Well - what a racket!

It worked - and I am guessing the noise could have been heard over the sound of the engine at full revs - seriously - it was loud.

So I removed the 2 pin bit - and the flasher still works - same cadence - less noise.I may have to put it back when finally mobile so I can hear it 'blinking' but I can always rat up an electronic one, too. So that's a win.

I would have been quite happy to proceed with the individual wiper motors - if I had been able to get them apart for refurbishing. Alas, one nut was seriously locked in and I couldn't continue with dismantling it. Hence the decision to swap - and because the single motor unit was all I had available... in it went :)

The only problem I had with the new installation is that the new wiper arms I received are cranked such that both blades would need to move in the same direction at the same time. I needed the passenger one to be different.


I got:

o--------/ o--------/


when I wanted:

o--------/ \---------o

if you can see what I mean.

So - I had to use the old wiper arms which means I have a set of Series 2/3 wiper arms here as spares and I have to refurb the old arms.

G'day Drifter :)

Here are a couple of numbers fro the current Narva Cattledog for electronic flasher cans

68238BL 3 pin 6x21w +ad 5watts suitable ind & hazzard load sensitive type globe outage indication, there should be a mounting bracket for it.

68254BL 4 pin 6x21=5additional watts, flasher + Haz,where an additional pilot curcuit is req for trailer,load sensitive with lamp outage ind, metal mounting tag

68256 same as 54 with 5 pins where a pilot curcuit is required for both trailer and car.

Go to your local Narva dealer and ask to have a look at his catalogue pages 209--221 ;)


Hope that is of some help.

cheers