Steering Relay

Well the new relay and bottom plate went in today and I readjusted the steering box. What a transformation! It is possible to drive in a straight line now. It's surprising how a small amount of movement at the relay translates to a lot of play at the wheels. There is still a little bit of play there but it no longer feels like you are going to spear off into the scenery if you are not constantly moving the wheel.

Thanks all for your input :).

TimJ.

I have just spent the whole day trying to get mine out. This has got to be the single hardest job I have ever attempted on my Land Rover. I've soaked it, heated it, cooled it, used chains (which have broken three times) between a trolley jack and the chassis, pulling it out with an engine crane while jumping on the brush bar... all to no avail. What a waste of a day.[bawl]

The question I have, is it safe to take the top off by removing the four bolts? I want to check to see if there's any oil in the new one I have and I'm considering pulling the old one apart while in the chassis then cutting the f*#cking :wasntme:thing out from the inside.

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Originally Posted by TJWA

I have just spent the whole day trying to get mine out. This has got to be the single hardest job I have ever attempted on my Land Rover.
<snip>
The question I have, is it safe to take the top off by removing the four bolts?
<snip>.

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No it is not safe to simply undo the four bolts.

The mechanism has a spring under compression and is retained in place by the flange. Undoing the screws sometimes allows the relay shaft to become a projectile.

Yes you can overhaul the relay without removing the assembly from the chassis.

What you need to do is to somehow have some thing else to retain the outer retaining flange, like a "G" clamp, so that when the screws are removed you can control the release of the spring.

You would be advised to remove the bottom flange first, with something like a 20 litre metal bucket underneath and possibly some sand, sawdust or a large piece of 4" sponge rubber in the bottom. This way, if the shaft does become a projectile, it is in a contained environment with a damping material in the bottom.

Use the workshop manual to check and re-assemble.

Diana

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Originally Posted by TJWA

The question I have, is it safe to take the top off by removing the four bolts?

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ummm

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

FFS advise your mechanic that the relay box has a bloody huge "Not kidding going to tear your arm off and impale you in the chest with the shaft and head plate" class spring in it.

make a frame to secure the head with, place it in at least a 10t press and undo the head bolts in the press.

I have seen what happens when the mechanic says "Its ok Im only going to loosen them a little and then put it in the press" and loosens off a couple and the last 2 snap..

the term broken fingers in a workshop means you have a clutch plate problem. In an ER room it means no more mechanicing for you for at least 3 weeks.

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did you miss that bit?

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Originally Posted by Timj

Actually the mechanic warned me about that

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or that?


failing that read the post by lotza landies...

dont try a gclamp, when you goto undo it the results will be interesting, seen that one.

a pair of metal plates suitably drilled with some spare holes to take some threaded rod so you have contained control at all times would be the best bet.

No I didn't miss it, just thought it might only apply to the bottom plate or something. I'm guessing not. Thanks for the multiple warnings.

I have a new relay that has been sitting in storage for a few years so I wanted to check to see if it had oil in it. :mellow:

I have an idea to weld some thick plates on either side of the chassis for bearing puller arms to grab, then I should be able to push it out from the bottom with a 200mm two arm puller. Similar to what this guy has done:

[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2OL9DXTPx0"]YouTube- Land Rover Serie - Steering relay extraction - the easy way out[/nomedia]

I tried the way he did it and could not get the ring spanners to stay.

TJ,
When I removed mine, I had been soaking it in an excellent penetrating fluid for at least 2 weeks and it still needed a very large sledge hammer and some severe blows to move it. When it did come out, the cylinder in the chassis had to be replaced anyway.

It might be time to take the grinder to the chassis and cut it free. I presume you have used the large sledge hammer method?

I used the vice and sandbag method for disassembly, as detailed in the workshop manual, and a vice and spring clips to put it together (also in the manual),

Cheers Charlie

It is in fact safe to remove the top plate provided that is all you do! The spring is between tapered split bushes, that are retained in place by tapered shoulders on the shaft. If you attempt to remove the shaft (and nothing except friction is holding it in place with the plate off), as soon as the split bush comes free from the housing, the spring will expand violently, with severe risk of injury from the spring , bush halves, shaft and body. There is a lot of stored energy!

But, if all you want to do is check the oil in it, there is no need to remove the top plate - simply remove two screws from the top plate and inject oil in one until it comes out the other one.

John

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

It is in fact safe to remove the top plate provided that is all you do! The spring is between tapered split bushes, that are retained in place by tapered shoulders on the shaft. If you attempt to remove the shaft (and nothing except friction is holding it in place with the plate off), as soon as the split bush comes free from the housing, the spring will expand violently, with severe risk of injury from the spring , bush halves, shaft and body. There is a lot of stored energy!

But, if all you want to do is check the oil in it, there is no need to remove the top plate - simply remove two screws from the top plate and inject oil in one until it comes out the other one.

John

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Thanks John, that is exacly what I wanted to know. All I really want to do is check / add oil on the new one before I put it in....that's if I get the old one out!

Thanks also Charlie, I have tried the sledgehammer method. I'm wrapping two lengths of chain around the chassis and jack today to give that another go, if unsuccessful I will be welding tabs to the sides of the chassis to allow grab for a bearing puller.

Still no luck. I don't want to start cutting into the chassis, this started as a half day job.