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Thread: Installing a New Dizzy into a 4Cyl Rover Engine.

  1. #1
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    Installing a New Dizzy into a 4Cyl Rover Engine.

    I have another thread about a SWB 4cyl Restore/rebuild. Which I've put on hold for the last umpteen months or so. I was cleaning up the shed, when I came across a new dizzy I purchased a while back. And decided to give it another go, to install it.

    And I'm still having the same problems with it as before, that it will not start after this dizzy is installed. I've tried everything that I can think of, to no avail. When I install the original, she starts first go. I'm inclined to think that the dizzy is faulty or some thing..

    Has anyone come across a problem like this before??

    I purchased this 4 cyl dizzy from Gary at CLR. And I've no problems with parts I've purchased from him before.. Just want to check whether anyone else may have had this problem before..And how I can get over the problem.

    What I've done:-

    1. Hand cranked engine to #1 piston firing position. (To match timing mark) (Same thing that I've done with the original, and it works. But it's quite worn though)
    2. Installed New Dizzy.
    3. Rotated dizzy to match #1 Piston position.
    4. Installed points and adjusted.
    5. Installed rotor and cap, connected cables.
    6. Cranked engine.
    7. Result... Will not start.

    Wolf

    I've attached a photo of the new distributor, which is causing me this problem.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Wolfman_TWP; 20th July 2010 at 01:20 PM. Reason: Added more info.
    1972 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Parts
    1974 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Jess - (Registered)
    1975 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Parts
    1978 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Parts
    1979 - S3 SWB (88) Utility - Aurora (TBR)
    2014 - Defender (110) - Cher (MY15)

  2. #2
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    I guess the first question is - Have you confirmed that it actually produces a spark at the coil? For example, when you manually open the points with the ignition on.

    If it does, then there are two possibilities - the spark is poor quality (just about has to be the capacitor) or the distributor cap is faulty in some way. One possibility, assuming there are new leads on the new distributor is that the leads are faulty or not connecting properly at either the distributor or plug end.

    This assumes you have the timing and firing order right, which seems a reasonable assumption seeing that you can get the old one going OK.

    One thing that should be checked - does the distributor have the correct rotor button? (Not sure how you tell for certain!)


    If no spark, check the low voltage circuit step by step. The most likely problem is the earth link from the breaker plate, but also check that the points are not shorted by incorrect assembly.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #3
    Charlie Guest
    If it is a new dissy, it probably is fitted with new points. New points come with a preservative coating on the contacts, and that preservative is a very good insulator!

    Clean the contacts with a petrol soaked rag and see what happens.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    I guess the first question is - Have you confirmed that it actually produces a spark at the coil? For example, when you manually open the points with the ignition on.

    If it does, then there are two possibilities - the spark is poor quality (just about has to be the capacitor) or the distributor cap is faulty in some way. One possibility, assuming there are new leads on the new distributor is that the leads are faulty or not connecting properly at either the distributor or plug end.

    This assumes you have the timing and firing order right, which seems a reasonable assumption seeing that you can get the old one going OK.

    One thing that should be checked - does the distributor have the correct rotor button? (Not sure how you tell for certain!)

    If no spark, check the low voltage circuit step by step. The most likely problem is the earth link from the breaker plate, but also check that the points are not shorted by incorrect assembly.

    John
    Thanks John,

    I think that you may have hit the nail on the head... I'll check the earth link wire from the breaker plate to the distributor body connection.. (I didn't think to check it as it's supposed to be brand new.) As this is the only thing I forgot to check..

    Wolf
    1972 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Parts
    1974 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Jess - (Registered)
    1975 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Parts
    1978 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Parts
    1979 - S3 SWB (88) Utility - Aurora (TBR)
    2014 - Defender (110) - Cher (MY15)

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charlie View Post
    If it is a new dissy, it probably is fitted with new points. New points come with a preservative coating on the contacts, and that preservative is a very good insulator!

    Clean the contacts with a petrol soaked rag and see what happens.
    I used the points, rotor and cap from the old distributor, and same thing. I think that John, may have solved it for me. Will check it out tonight when I get home..

    Many Thanks
    Wolf
    1972 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Parts
    1974 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Jess - (Registered)
    1975 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Parts
    1978 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Parts
    1979 - S3 SWB (88) Utility - Aurora (TBR)
    2014 - Defender (110) - Cher (MY15)

  6. #6
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    After a lot of stuffing around, I finally got her started with the new dizzy. The problems were numerous, low in fuel, dizzy #1 piston position reversed, point gap needed resetting again, etc.

    I've ordered all new components, dizzy cap, rotor, points, capacitor, coil etc., so when I get them next week, I'll put them in and see how it goes.

    There is one thing I noticed, was that when I rev her high, I get a pop in the dizzy.. Anyone know what would cause that.. (Not only happens when I rev the engine high)

    I also have another quick question.. What does the #5 on the engine mean?? See photo attached..
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1972 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Parts
    1974 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Jess - (Registered)
    1975 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Parts
    1978 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Parts
    1979 - S3 SWB (88) Utility - Aurora (TBR)
    2014 - Defender (110) - Cher (MY15)

  7. #7
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    I really don't know - mine has a "3" there. I would think it is just a batch number or subcontractor number for the head casting.

    As far as I am aware it has no significance.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  8. #8
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    Got the popping problem sorted.. (From the Carby, not the dizzy as mentioned in the other post) Needed to retard the timing.. (A Lot).. Also found it, to have a broken gasket, under the spacer on the intake manifold. (Between Carby and manifold) So will get that done. And it should be OK, until I get the project to the stage I can get the engine rebuilt.. (Mainly the internals, and the head, welsh plugs etc...)

    Wolf

    Replaced the broken gasket, and sealed with aviation gasket compound. She runs WAY smoother now. And no more popping. All I need to do now is to reset the tappets, and she should be good to go. Seems to have much more power now with the new Weber Carby... Will give her a test run once I get the other new components and reset the tappets..
    1972 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Parts
    1974 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Jess - (Registered)
    1975 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Parts
    1978 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Parts
    1979 - S3 SWB (88) Utility - Aurora (TBR)
    2014 - Defender (110) - Cher (MY15)

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