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Thread: Bleeding clutch (bleedin' clutch!) on SIII HELP!

  1. #1
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    Bleeding clutch (bleedin' clutch!) on SIII HELP!

    So I had a leaking slave cylinder on my series 3 clutch. Bought a new slave and then ended up rplacing the master cylinder as well because it had deteriorated internally.

    Now I can't seem to get it to work after I bleed it. I run it through as normal and then the clutch has no pressure, but if I pump it a few times I seem to get resistance and it feels like a clutch. So what could I be doing wrong? I've almost gone through a bottle of fluid trying to get it bled.

    Does anyone have any tips to help? I have the factory manual but it doesn't offer any tips. Does the position of the bleed nipple make a difference. Mine was the bottom hole but the manual says it should be uppermost, however this would mean bending the hard line. It feels like there is air trapped somewhere but with all the ups and downs in the tubing is there a sure fire way to get all the trapped air out?

    Help please.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    The way I bleed a clutch if you don't have a spare person is

    Connect a tube (prefer clear) and run the tube from the bleed nipple to a jar or container on the floor

    Fill the container half full of brake/ clutch fluid

    Fill your master cylinder

    Crack open the bleed valve and start pumping

    What happens is the air is pushed out the fluid sucked in and it only takes a short while.



    If using another person do it the same as brakes

    Get the person to pump for about 5 goes then say DOWN and while they hold it down you crack the nipple and let the air out (the person MUST keep the pedal down) then do the nipple back up and repeat until all air is gone.

    Hope this helps

    Adam

  3. #3
    scoteye Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by pfillery View Post
    So I had a leaking slave cylinder on my series 3 clutch. Bought a new slave and then ended up rplacing the master cylinder as well because it had deteriorated internally.

    Now I can't seem to get it to work after I bleed it. I run it through as normal and then the clutch has no pressure, but if I pump it a few times I seem to get resistance and it feels like a clutch. So what could I be doing wrong? I've almost gone through a bottle of fluid trying to get it bled.

    Does anyone have any tips to help? I have the factory manual but it doesn't offer any tips. Does the position of the bleed nipple make a difference. Mine was the bottom hole but the manual says it should be uppermost, however this would mean bending the hard line. It feels like there is air trapped somewhere but with all the ups and downs in the tubing is there a sure fire way to get all the trapped air out?

    Help please.
    yeah mate not sure what procedure you have been using but the best way is to get 2 people now with your slave nipple tightened pump the pedal til you get that resistance and hold it down now sing out to the other person to open the nipple before the pedal reaches full travel sing out and get the nipple closed before the pedal is released Repeat repeat and repeat some more till you get a good pedal,


    • I find it easiest to be opening and closing the nipple eg "Pump it up" and hold it "down".
    • Keep checking the clutch fluid & keep it full.
    • NOTE: For those who might decide to do this if you Clutch Master is old put a block of wood under the clutch pedal to prevent full travel, if you hapen to go full travel you risk picking up contaminants at the end of the bore and scoring the bore and causing an internal leak

  4. #4
    scoteye Guest
    Yes nipple position does matter always upper most i would sort those lines out

  5. #5
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Can help to have nose uphill, and you definitely do not want nose downhill. As a last resort, I have used reverse bleeding, using an oil pump to inject fluid at the bleed nipple. If you do this, scrupulous cleanliness is necessary with everything in contact with the fluid.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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