Thread: cost of labour

That ($2100) sounds about right for all that work, although your parts do seem a bit dear.
My Series3 needed a full brake job, (drum skim, shoes, all new wheel cylinders, master cylinder overhaul, new hoses and steel brake lines plus bleed and check handbrake). That came to a total of $2001 and some cents.

Having also changed all shackle bushes on an earlier Series 2A I am aware of how difficult that job can be if anything has seized up, I took 4 hours on one spring but fortunately the others were a bit easier at around 2.5-3 hours per spring.

Hope that helps ease the pain.

Disco.

Originally Posted by Disco Denmark

That ($2100) sounds about right for all that work, although your parts do seem a bit dear.
My Series3 needed a full brake job, (drum skim, shoes, all new wheel cylinders, master cylinder overhaul, new hoses and steel brake lines plus bleed and check handbrake). That came to a total of $2001 and some cents.

Having also changed all shackle bushes on an earlier Series 2A I am aware of how difficult that job can be if anything has seized up, I took 4 hours on one spring but fortunately the others were a bit easier at around 2.5-3 hours per spring.

Hope that helps ease the pain.

Disco.

Thanks mate, still does' nt make it feel any better I know this guy I thought he would look after me a little better. Yes parts were defiantly too high.

Want to know the best 15 minutes I ever spent - googling and downloading the series 3 factory workshop manual from the net. Most of what the average home mechanic wants to do is in there, and what the book doesn't tell you this forum probably can (so I've found). Or go and buy the haynes one if you don't have the download limit as its a big file. I printed and bound mine and it makes for great light reading at night.

When I used to live in a country area without much access to mechanics except for dodgy ones who would disconnect things rather than fix them (but only unimportant things like cooling fan wires because the fan makes a noise, nothing serious) and whose idea of fixing a check engine light was to take out the bulb, I would do car servicing and auto electrical stuff for $40 an hour plus parts, and usually I told them what to buy and they would supply the oil and filters etc, I would usually include any grease or sprays etc as part of my labour charge. So maybe that is an option, find a good backyard mechanic and source the bits yourself, that way you can buy it on your terms and avoid the added on profit margin they make.

Case in point - Ultra Tune (did I just say that out loud?) wanted $10 for an indicator bulb in a recent roadworthy on a work vehicle, whereas another place just grabbed one out and replaced it for free, no charge at all, (not even for the hours of labour it took to strip the entire car to pieces in order to fit the bulb) so it is all about perspective and where you go. They are reknowned for putting on 20 or 30% markups on parts and always try and quote on genuine parts rather than aftermarket. Tried to quote me over $700 supply only ex freight for a steering part from a Peugeot once and told me they had to be imported from France with a 3 - 4 week delay and were not available in Australia, funny how I managed to find the same part through a Pug dealer for $250 available by overnight freight delivered free. Kind of makes you think they didn't want the job.

Originally Posted by pfillery

Want to know the best 15 minutes I ever spent - googling and downloading the series 3 factory workshop manual from the net. Most of what the average home mechanic wants to do is in there, and what the book doesn't tell you this forum probably can (so I've found). Or go and buy the haynes one if you don't have the download limit as its a big file. I printed and bound mine and it makes for great light reading at night.

When I used to live in a country area without much access to mechanics except for dodgy ones who would disconnect things rather than fix them (but only unimportant things like cooling fan wires because the fan makes a noise, nothing serious) and whose idea of fixing a check engine light was to take out the bulb, I would do car servicing and auto electrical stuff for $40 an hour plus parts, and usually I told them what to buy and they would supply the oil and filters etc, I would usually include any grease or sprays etc as part of my labour charge. So maybe that is an option, find a good backyard mechanic and source the bits yourself, that way you can buy it on your terms and avoid the added on profit margin they make.

Case in point - Ultra Tune (did I just say that out loud?) wanted $10 for an indicator bulb in a recent roadworthy on a work vehicle, whereas another place just grabbed one out and replaced it for free, no charge at all, (not even for the hours of labour it took to strip the entire car to pieces in order to fit the bulb) so it is all about perspective and where you go. They are reknowned for putting on 20 or 30% markups on parts and always try and quote on genuine parts rather than aftermarket. Tried to quote me over $700 supply only ex freight for a steering part from a Peugeot once and told me they had to be imported from France with a 3 - 4 week delay and were not available in Australia, funny how I managed to find the same part through a Pug dealer for $250 available by overnight freight delivered free. Kind of makes you think they didn't want the job.

Thanks mate,I offered the mechanic to get parts for him - that was my 1st big mistake 2nd was I new him, thought I could trust him 3rd mistake I've got the manuals thought it would be to hard to do brakes myself, should have had a go . I will be having a word to hoim when I see him at the gym... LESSONS LEARNED HARD....

If you don't have a removable transmission crossmember on your vehicle, adapt the fixed one to be removeable. You will appreciate the effort taken next time you have to remove the tranny or transfer case rather than having to pull the floor and seats apart every time. Don't expect to need to take it out again? It's an old Land Rover. You will.

How hard is it to modify? Wouldn't you run the risk of structurally harming the strength of the chassis by cutting it out? Or is it only a protection for the box?

Originally Posted by Disco Denmark

That ($2100) sounds about right for all that work, although your parts do seem a bit dear.
My Series3 needed a full brake job, (drum skim, shoes, all new wheel cylinders, master cylinder overhaul, new hoses and steel brake lines plus bleed and check handbrake). That came to a total of $2001 and some cents.

Having also changed all shackle bushes on an earlier Series 2A I am aware of how difficult that job can be if anything has seized up, I took 4 hours on one spring but fortunately the others were a bit easier at around 2.5-3 hours per spring.

Hope that helps ease the pain.

Disco.

wow im glad you posted that i recently bought my 1975 lwb and my whole brake system was completely rebuilt at a cost of just over $2000. this left me wondering if i had payed to much, but i rest at ease. on the bright side it certainly make DIY seem much more satisfying.

So if one's willing to spend this much on brake overhauls wouldn't it make more sense to do a disc brake conversion? Obviously the exact cost may not have been anticipated I suppose.