Landrover dealers or specialists.Quote:
Originally Posted by mick88
John
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Landrover dealers or specialists.Quote:
Originally Posted by mick88
John
Dont know if anyone has mentioned this but have you checked if Skippy had his final revenge on your steering damper?
If this is bent it will make the steering very stiff and the extra load you are putting on it trying to turn it can flex the firewall.
My steering was also very stiff.
In my quest to find the fault I did the following -
Removed steering damper which was absolutely cream crackered. This made little difference.
Filled the steering box with oil. This made little difference.
Removed and renewed the steering relay. This made a bit of a difference, but to be honest, probably wasn't worth the hassle as it was seized solid in the housing. Needed a gas axe, a drift, a big hammer, and a mate, to persuade it to leave home.
Have you jacked up the front axle to see if the steering is stiff whilst the wheels are off the ground?
I've been checking everything tonight,steering damper seems fine,the oil was low in the steering box so I've topped it up. The squeaking seems to be around the relay unit area but the movement is from the steering box end. I'm wondering if the ball joints may be seized by the drop arm and upper relay lever ?? Would this maybe affect the system ??Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4_bugsy
All bolts seem tight also. Not sure how you check the relay unit oil level :confused: Do you have to remove the "upper relay lever" first ??
I'm thinking I need to get it booked into m r automotive for remedial works.
Remove the rad grille to expose the relay and then remove two bolts from the top of the relay itself (one to fill through and one to vent air as you're filling).
You'll need the worlds smallest funnel to get oil in.....or use one of those squirty oil can things.
(I filled mine with WD40 as I intended to fit a new one, as it was seized almost solid)
I managed to get some oil in the steering box and relay unit monday evening, today when I turned the steering the dreadful squeaking noise has disappeared and it was slightly easier to turn.
However, the bulkhead movement is still there so I'm wondering if the relay unit is the problem, being partially seized maybe :confused:
I'm going to jack up the front of vehicle later and try the steering with no weight on it, is there a simple method to check the oil levels in the swivels and what oil is best ??
on the bottom of each swivel housing there is a drain bung and on the rear of each housing there is filler/level bung ...
being as you didn't know they are there i'd suggest draining each swivel to see what falls out and then refilling using EP90 GL4 spec' which is the same oil as is supposed to be used in the gearbox and transfer box (although to be honest GL5 spec will be fine in the axles/swivels and is easier to get in England)....
your front axle "should" have a bung in the centre of the diff pan for filling but if not there will be one in the diff casting itself (unless like me you have 3.54 discovery diffs) a late Series 3 "may" also have a filler/level plug in the rear diff pan, if not, again you'll be looking at the diff casting
i hope this helps
i've got to check my overdrive, gearbox and transfer box levels tomorrow as my exhaust has been stinking quite a bit recently where i've been blowing a bit out and burning it off, i really hate topping those up even tho i've got a pump to make it easier, cubby box out, centre tool tray out and then struggle to get the filler bung out of the overdrive, the other two are easy enough to get to but my pump and container are a little too tall to get under my 88" so it's difficult to see when it's full and pump at the same time :(
The engine,gearbox and diff oils were changed prior to me collecting the vehicle, I'd be surprised if the swivels are dry but there is evidence of a build up of oil at the bottom of each one so I'll check them.
Next step will be to get the steering overhauled at the garage !!
If the firewall can move by any appreciable amount then some of the attachment bolts must be loose.
If you have a relay housing siezed in the chassis, you can overhaul the internal components with the housing in-situ. The job is easier if you remove the grill/radiator support panel.Quote:
Originally Posted by dangermousehouse
One solution to filling is to fit a grease nipple and use an oil syringe with a nipple fitting to fill the relay. Once you have filled the relay, you can remove the nipple and re-fit the plug/bolt.Quote:
Originally Posted by dangermousehouse
Note: Don't remove all 4 bolts from the top or bottom as the relay components inside are spring loaded.