Thread: Steering Problems....

The sliding shaft section(s) haven't been shunted tight and bound up have they? If they bind then something else has to flex as the uni's make the shaft longer and shorter as they cycle.
A bit of WD40 and prying with a screwdriver should allow you to see if thats the problem.

Originally Posted by isuzutoo-eh

The sliding shaft section(s) haven't been shunted tight and bound up have they? If they bind then something else has to flex as the uni's make the shaft longer and shorter as they cycle.
A bit of WD40 and prying with a screwdriver should allow you to see if thats the problem.

Sliding shaft section? unis? On a Series 3? Don't exist (except Stage 1).

I suggest that the stiff steering is probably due to a lack of oil in either the steering box or steering relay, or possibly dry swivels. The movement of the footwell should not happen, but may be due to the extra load this puts on the system, but also check that the vertical bracket bolted to the steering box, chassis and footwell is not loose (either steering box or chassis end) possibly due to rust on the chassis. Have a look at it under the mudguard while someone turns the steering.

John

I checked all around that area and found one bolt fairly loose by the drop arm, after tightening this bolt there was no change. I've done a few searches and found a few articles where the firewall had cracks in it causing this movement but I can see no evidence on my vehicle.Also the chassis/firewall/floor has no rust at all so I'm convinced it must be the steering box.
So should the steering box have oil or grease in it ?? Again I found articles where people have used both.
The problem is certainly around the steering box and drop arm assembly when the wheel is turned.

The steering box, swivels and the relay should have EP90 oil in them. If the oil leaks out, then it is time to change the seals and check the fasteners.

Get a spanner on to every fastener in the system and tighten them to the correct torque, as listed in the workshop manual.

My friend's S2A squeaked dreadfully - as you described - and it turned out to be a dry relay,

Cheers Charlie

I have found that over time all sorts of bolts work themselves loose - e.g. the (2?) bolts holding the firewall to the vertical bracket, the 3 bolts holding vertical bracket to the chassis, and the 4 bolts securing the steering box to the bracket. Tighten all these up (and loctite them) and that should stop any firewall movement (unless something is cracked). Then check oil and excess play/resistance in the steering.

Thanks for all the tips I'll have a look at it later and check the oil levels etc. Hopefully it turns out to be a simple solution.

Originally Posted by jerryd

I checked all around that area and found one bolt fairly loose by the drop arm, after tightening this bolt there was no change. I've done a few searches and found a few articles where the firewall had cracks in it causing this movement but I can see no evidence on my vehicle.Also the chassis/firewall/floor has no rust at all so I'm convinced it must be the steering box.
So should the steering box have oil or grease in it ?? Again I found articles where people have used both.
The problem is certainly around the steering box and drop arm assembly when the wheel is turned.

Both steering box and relay should have EP-90, but semiliquid grease ("one-shot" swivel grease) would be acceptable. Ordinary grease will push away from moving parts leaving them unlubricated. If you can't get oil to stay in, then repairs to seals, bushes and shafts are probably necessary.

John

Where can I obtain this "One Shot" swivel grease please?

Mick