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Just adding a bit - likely causes of overheating not mentioned - slipping fan belt, centrifugal advance in distributor stuck, vacuum advance not functioning, missing fan shroud, loose or leaking carburetter flange or intake manifold giving too lean a mixture, other carburetter problems.
Could be several of these together. Overheating is not a normal problem with this engine, even in severe conditions.
John
Thanks John, font of wisdom as usual.
I will have someone more mechanical than me check out the carb and timing. The old girl got a reconditioned carb about 12 years ago, so it could be due for another work over.
Thanks for all the replies and advice. Will report back once I have some news.
I thought thermostat on Series III 2.25L engines was supposed to open around 72 degrees C. That's what my manual says (1976 LWB), maybe some others are different. But if your thermostat is opening later than it should....
Also I have from another web page see:
How a Land Rover skirted thermostat works
that some engines require a thermostat with a skirt. This may be a hangover from earlier Series, not sure if it applies to later engines, but worth considering.
I also suspect some cooling issues with my Series III so will keep watching this thread to see what other info turns up!
Regards
Coop
10 years is actually a long time ... well overdue .... pull it out and get it roddedQuote:
Originally Posted by RaggedJoe
Cheers
Mike
I had an 'overheating' problem that was traced to the voltage stabiliser not, well, stabilising.
New one fitted brought the needle back down, and also the fuel gauge is bit more accurate. Same circuit.
Check your temps with the ray gun. If they're OK, fit a new stabiliser. Fairly cheap and easy course of action before ripping into something unnecessarily.
Yep, will do all of the above as suggested when I can get some time in the shed!
In many cases it is not in fact the stabiliser, but its earth connection - you fit a new one, remaking the earth connection, and it fixes the problem - obviously the stabiliser - but could have been the earth connection. Easy to check before you start by simply checking voltage on the earth terminal. I must admit this is more likely on the Series 2a where the earth is the mounting of the stabiliser.Quote:
Originally Posted by dangermousehouse
John
Okay, here is the update. Thermostat is opening around 74 degrees, seems fine. Not reinstalled yet as motor was too hot.
Over heating is not extreme, but it just gets hotter under load. It never used to do this. Been for a good drive, got hot under load, then cooled again on the downhills, hot again on the uphill. Not serious heat, just not like it was.
Temp differential from top of radiator to bottom is only around 3 to 5 degrees. I was expecting more....? Maybe lack of thermostat is the reason..?
Will reinstall the thermostat in the next day or so and then retest.
She is running quite nice, so hoping the mixture and timing is okay.
Cheers. RJ
Check the timing with a timing light; if it is getting too hot with no thermostat, it is bad news :(
If it was mine I would have the radiator out and get the core rodded. What sort of condition is the coolant in? Any brown stuff in the mix?
Cheers Charlie
Coolant is fine, just replaced. Was relativly clean when changed. Might have to do the radiator as you suggest.