BraKe systems Series 3 1976

do not fit the vac generator to the inlet... it will rob you of something like 15-20% at the top end.. Trust me, you'll miss it.

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

1. Cheapest and simplest, which is why it was used. Also gives a standard installation. But parts would almost certainly have to be second hand, and should be carefully inspected, especially for wear on the butterfly shaft and join to manifold, which could allow in unfiltered air. Also as noted above, linkage adjustment is critical.

2. Technically the best. But you would need to do the research to find a suitable alternator and design, supply and fit oil supply and drain for the pump. Probably my preferred solution, although I don't think it is black and white.

But if it were my vehicle I would be inclined to stick with the original brakes. These, properly maintained, are quite adequate for the relatively modest performance of the diesel. It may be worthwhile considering increasing actual braking capability rather than number of circuits and decreasing pedal pressure, especially if it is a swb. For the swb the brakes (especially front + M/C) from a 109 can be fitted, and for a 109, you can fit the wider front brakes off a six/V8, which were fitted to all 109s in late production.

While in theory, the fitting of a dual brake system decreases the risk of unexpected brake failure, in real life the risk of this is very, very low, provided the system is properly maintained. While modern vehicles rely on warning lights and "never lift the bonnet between services" with vehicles of this era, you should check for fluid level and leaks whenever you check the engine oil and coolant - perhaps not every day, but certainly every few days.

John

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Hello John,

I suppose I would not be asking these questions if the system was "properly maintained". I bought the vehicle unregistered and it has been a number of years since it has seen regular road use.

This vehicle will be used as a tow vehicle. So while it may not be going that fast I would like to be able to stop when I want to. Having brakes where you go "I think I can stop - I am sure I can stop" are not the kind of brakes that impress me that much.

All my vehicles are long wheel base ones.

Since I have to work on the brakes anyway I might as well update them in the process.

Kind Regards
Lionel

I guess if you want to get the best out of your brakes you should convert the front to 6cy/v8 drums

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Originally Posted by lro11

I guess if you want to get the best out of your brakes you should convert the front to 6cy/v8 drums

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G'day Iro11 and other contributors to this thread,

Yes, I was thinking about that and trying to work out if this also involves changing the brake backing plate? Or were they made as a one size fits all and it does not matter what size brake wheel cylinder was used?

Similarly, were the drums different between the four cylinder and the six engines?

I will have to upgrade the brake wheel cylinders up to the 109 shoes six cylinder type.

All good fun - it is a bit like one of those domino principles where one little innocuous tile knocks into the one next to it.

Kind Regards
Lionel

You will have to change the back plate, wheel cylinders, shoes and drums on the front.

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Originally Posted by Lionelgee

G'day Iro11 and other contributors to this thread,

Yes, I was thinking about that and trying to work out if this also involves changing the brake backing plate? Or were they made as a one size fits all and it does not matter what size brake wheel cylinder was used?

Similarly, were the drums different between the four cylinder and the six engines?

I will have to upgrade the brake wheel cylinders up to the 109 shoes six cylinder type.

All good fun - it is a bit like one of those domino principles where one little innocuous tile knocks into the one next to it.

Kind Regards
Lionel

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Wider drums, shoes, and backing plates to suit were introduced for the six, used with the V8, and became standard on all lwb in late production Series 3. Wheel cylinders are the same.

John

Hello IRO,

Thank you for the photographs - they really help a lot :).
Now could you please let me know what the big ball thingo is next to the windscreen washer bottle? :D Where is it plumbed into?

Kind Regards
Lionel

That is the vacuum tank it goes to a tee piece which connects to the throttle body and to the booster the 6cy v8 wheel cylinders differ from the 4 cyl ones on two main areas they have a round mounting spigot where the 4 cyl has two flats it also has different pistons that attach to the shoes

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Originally Posted by lro11

That is the vacuum tank it goes to a tee piece which connects to the throttle body and to the booster the 6cy v8 wheel cylinders differ from the 4 cyl ones on two main areas they have a round mounting spigot where the 4 cyl has two flats it also has different pistons that attach to the shoes

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Cheers Iro11,

Thank you again for yet more photos - they are much appreciated :).

I have been doing some trawling on the internet and sent a couple of PMs and even found one of Dinty's links about his LRPV which has a diesel Series III in it. Various sources say the butterfly intake valves are as rare as rocking horse poo. So as Lotz-A- Landies (sp?) suggested in the LRPV thread I am considering taking the Isuzu Alternator with Vacuum pump attachment option. Apparently the English use a Ford Transit Alternator 98A with vacuum pump - but they are three times as dear as the Isuzu.

Anyway at the moment Baldrick is at my mate of mine’s place who is a welder. The passenger side front dumb iron is getting rust cut out of it and then welded up. A couple of bits are getting straightened out; and a couple of bits added to. So Baldrick is out of my yard for a couple of weeks.

I will work on Rowan and get the lights sorted out - find out why the speedo does not work? Plus rebuild its carby. The fun never ends - aye:D.

Kind Regards
Lionel

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Originally Posted by lro11

Photos of my brake system on 2.25 diesel sorry no shuttle valve photo

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Hi
I made a butterfly valve for my series 3 wagon based on the diagrams in the workshop manual but never installed the extra vac tank that is pictured under the passenger seat.
Mine had the original petrol motor replaced by a diesel(rover2.25) by the first owner. It still has the original booster with separate single circuit master cylinder.
I am interest in what parts/fittings/layout are required to add the extra vacuum tank. I have just rebuilt the gearbox after having it up on blocks since 1987 (chipped layshaft)
also interested in upgrading front brake pads to 6 cylinder type. Could a brake shop do this legally?