Thread: Old Car New Owner

I need a brake booster for my 100" so I might look at the early holden booster with reservoir. Thanks for the photo. How hard is it to get an adaptor plate for a 250 Ford to mate to a series box. I know that it can chew up the gearbox but I don't drive my landy like a maniac and do circle work in it, it's just a farm ute/hunting vehicle and bush basher 4WD. If anyone can point me in the direction of a plate that'd be great. Anyway I'm quite interested in your project, can you show some photos of the conversion.

Originally Posted by seriesLR

Hey Gav, this is the best I could manage that takes in the pedal and linkage hope it helps, if your after a specific angle let me know.

Thanks for that. That shows what I was needing to know - how it was connected to the pedal. Mounting it would be straight forward I would think. Gives me options when I go shopping for a booster and MC.

Cheers - Gav.

Originally Posted by seriesLR

Hi

This booster looks like the Holden 4 wheel disc brake booster. It has a dual diaphragm and I think has a higher boost ratio than the larger diameter flatter single diaphragm booster.

I modified a Series 2A 109, a long time ago, it had a 302 Ford engine in it (made my own adaptor plate), the brake M/cyl as fitted to your 109 is the same as the Ford M/cyl I adapted for use on my conversion, it could be something else but sure looks like the Ford unit. A quick check for part numbers will soon tell you what it was fitted too, cheers Dennis

Originally Posted by Series3 GT

How hard is it to get an adaptor plate for a 250 Ford to mate to a series box. I know that it can chew up the gearbox but I don't drive my landy like a maniac and do circle work in it, it's just a farm ute/hunting vehicle and bush basher 4WD. If anyone can point me in the direction of a plate that'd be great. Anyway I'm quite interested in your project, can you show some photos of the conversion.

GT, This is the fancy adaptor plate that mine uses.........nothing, which is most likely why the clutch is buggered!




I'm not sure about the series assembly but I don't think I've seen an exposed flywheel on a vehicle except for early model tractors?
Anyway, if I decide to keep this engine I'll most likely have a coverplate laser cut when the engine and G/box are out.

I did a bit of pressure washing underneith it yesterday, to see if there where many bad surprises.
Turns out there were only a couple of relatively miror issues. One being a couple of lower (close to the axle) spring leaves broken off on one side at the front, so there is only half of the broken ones there. The other is a bit of rust in one out rigger off the chassis.

the land rover chassis were not the best design when it comes to drainage. I recommend putting bigger drain holes where some already are and maybe add a few to some of the places where rust is prone.I just blew out this outrigger the other day and it was the only one(on both sides though) that had anything in it, but it had a lot

Originally Posted by schmierer LR at singleton

the land rover chassis were not the best design when it comes to drainage. I recommend putting bigger drain holes where some already are and maybe add a few to some of the places where rust is prone.I just blew out this outrigger the other day and it was the only one(on both sides though) that had anything in it, but it had a lot

I did notice the drainage was poor when I was pressure washing it, as you say the rust is alot in one spot.

So it doesn't even have a plate. It's just got the input shaft in the back of the engine thats held by the engine mounts. No wonder your clutch is stuffed.