Best motor for conversion

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Originally Posted by ncass11

So today, I go to the local landrover wreckers and ask for a 200tdi motor, they said they had one from a discovery with 270.000 k's on it, I said how much, he said $2000, go shove it, so on the same day I find a disco 1 in Innisfail about an hours drive away so I drive down to have a look, nice 200tdi with 5 speed manual with 280.000 on the clock and only just ran out of rego.exactly what I'm looking for and he said $1000, gave him the cash and I'm getting it tomorrow, went for test drive in it and it go's great, it will be hard getting used to the gearbox as the gears are only mm away unlike the series, everything is good in it the only bad part is the rust in it , I will feel bad about wrecking it as it's such a nice car but it needs to be done, anyway I can't stand the left hand indicator stalk so i won't be able to drive it, when I get my pulser on the road I'll start the conversion. And this shows how much wreckers rip you off, for half price I get a whole car with the same amount of k's, it even came with a UHF and half a tank of fuel, and my luck continuos the guy I got it off offered to transport it for me for free!

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Sell the rest of the car on eBay and you should make money out of it, and end up with a free engine

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ncass11

So today, I go to the local landrover wreckers and ask for a 200tdi motor, they said they had one from a discovery with 270.000 k's on it, I said how much, he said $2000, go shove it, so on the same day I find a disco 1 in Innisfail about an hours drive away so I drive down to have a look, nice 200tdi with 5 speed manual with 280.000 on the clock and only just ran out of rego.exactly what I'm looking for and he said $1000, gave him the cash and I'm getting it tomorrow, went for test drive in it and it go's great, it will be hard getting used to the gearbox as the gears are only mm away unlike the series, everything is good in it the only bad part is the rust in it , I will feel bad about wrecking it as it's such a nice car but it needs to be done, anyway I can't stand the left hand indicator stalk so i won't be able to drive it, when I get my pulser on the road I'll start the conversion. And this shows how much wreckers rip you off, for half price I get a whole car with the same amount of k's, it even came with a UHF and half a tank of fuel, and my luck continuos the guy I got it off offered to transport it for me for free!

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Perfect! Keep your eyes pealed for an LT77 box and your job will be easy, (tho as said before, the short bell housing kit for the R380 would be the strongest option). Now the work begins! :)

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Originally Posted by MR LR

Isuzu 4BD1t :wasntme:

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Just out of interest, what will you do with the grill panel when you squeeze in the 4BD1 and LT95 or are you considering using the series box?

I love the Series grill position but not so fussed with the Stage 1 through Defender style?

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Originally Posted by Sitec

----- the short bell housing kit for the R380 would be the strongest option

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Hi Simon

Those short bell housings and input shafts, were they make for any particular cars, or are they an aftermarket product for conversions only?
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Ok well I'll use the 4speed. And keep an eye out for a defender box, I want it to look original, and I Ike the series look better

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Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

Just out of interest, what will you do with the grill panel when you squeeze in the 4BD1 and LT95 or are you considering using the series box?

I love the Series grill position but not so fussed with the Stage 1 through Defender style?

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According to my measurements a 4BD1T will (just) fit in the engine bay without moving the grille. The bulkhead tunnel would need to be expanded significantly and you would need to use an isuzu box with the short bellhousing or a (modified) 101 or custom bellhousing.

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Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

Hi Simon

Those short bell housings and input shafts, were they make for any particular cars, or are they an aftermarket product for conversions only?
.

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IIRC they were a LR part for the 90s when they changed from the LT77 to the R380 so that everything remained the same with the 30mm longer R380.

Ashcroft Transmissions in the UK make up complete kits that has been assembled using genuine Rover parts and a remanufactured bellhousing. Short Bellhousing R 380 Parts - Ashcroft Transmissions - (Powered by CubeCart)

In a series landy there are still problems because the Short R380/LT230 box is still about 150mm longer than the series transmission. I don't want to cut the chassis cross member behind the gearbox so am currently working on a disk park brake conversion that will bring the calliper forward clear of the cross member. IMHO you can't use the original drum brake, because you would have to remove the gearbox to be able to take the handbrake drum off the output shaft.

When go bought the car it drove like new, once I get it home it it runs like crap, I'll start it up and it idles good and it reves good but once I rev it like 3-5 times is doesn't rev and idles rough and dies, wait 5 mins and it runs good again but after a couple revs it dies again, what do you guys think it is. This is my first ever diesel and as I'm only a apprentice mechanic I haven't learned much about diesels yet,

Could it be the injector pump?

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Originally Posted by ncass11

When go bought the car it drove like new, once I get it home it it runs like crap, I'll start it up and it idles good and it reves good but once I rev it like 3-5 times is doesn't rev and idles rough and dies, wait 5 mins and it runs good again but after a couple revs it dies again, what do you guys think it is. This is my first ever diesel and as I'm only a apprentice mechanic I haven't learned much about diesels yet,

Could it be the injector pump?

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First thing I would do

Check for any leaks in the fuel lines as could be getting air into the fuel. Does it start up straight away or take a little turning over to start. Remember that the Tdi's are a self bleeding diesel.

Also check and drain any water in the fuel filter. Unscrew the cap on the bottom and let out any water.

Also take the spade plug off the top of the injector pump and clean it up and put it back on again.

Also I should note that it would not start at all earlier and thought the the fuel sender was stuck and thinking it was empty, I put 10 ltrs of diesel in and cranked and it fired up, could it possibly be contaminated fuels he tank it about 70% full