Thread: Best motor for conversion

Originally Posted by ncass11

Replaced the diesel pump today but it didn't help, and I have a good feeling that it is air getting in somewhere. When I rev it up it must be sucking in air and when I turn it off the air must escape and then I turn it on and it's good again until it starts sucking in air when I rev it?

Assuming that there isn't any blockages, there must be a hole somewhere, most likely it's higher than the top of the tank, as fuel would be seen leaking out at times if it was lower than the fuel level.

Make up yourself a glass bottle with a metal screw top that you fit an input inside near the bottom, and the outlet out at the top.

Fit this test bottle to the return line in a possy near were you can see it easy, then running the engine you will be able to see when there is air passing through and when it becomes worse.

Then look for places that are likely to let air in:

The alloy bodied sedimentor can corrode causing pin holes.
Old fuel filter's can develop corrosion pin holes as well
Near where the fuel line attaches to the tank pickup, the metal pickup tube can crack where it's fastened into the plate.
The plastic fuel lines can get rub holes in them.
Sealing rings around the body of the filter and sedimentor bodies can perish or those rings could be twisted.
Less likely, the injector pump it's self can also develop a fault in it's sealing and be letting air in.
And it has been known that if a injector doesn't seal properly internally, that the combustion gases get driven back through the body of the injector into the return bleed line and by using that test bottle it's a good way of finding this problem out also.

After you find a likely spot where the air is being drawn in, watch the bottle for the air bubbles going through and pour a steady stream of diesel over the suss area, if you are on to it, the bubbles going through the test bottle will noticeably become less or stop.
.

I couldn't find we're the leak is, I'm wrecking it now and going to start pulling the motor out in a couple weeks or so and I'll sort it all out when I do the conversion, do I have to make any modifications to the bell housing or block to mate the 4 speed to it? I was reading somewhere that you had to drill some extra holes is that true?

Besides the fuel shut off solenoid is there any other extra wiring like glow plugs etc?

Cheers

Originally Posted by ncass11

...do I have to make any modifications to the bell housing or block to mate the 4 speed to it? I was reading somewhere that you had to drill some extra holes is that true?
...

I believe 200tdi to 4cyl series is one hole/stud difference.

Originally Posted by ncass11

I was reading somewhere that you had to drill some extra holes is that true?

Have a read of the article I emailed you and it it explains what to do,

Cheers Charlie

On my bellhousing that I'm going to use for a 300tdi conversion, I've had to drill four holes at the bottom and one at about 3 o clock I also had the bottom edge of the bellhousing levelled with weld before being drilled so the bolts sit square ( does that make sense )

There is lots of info on various land rover sites.

Converting a Series Land Rover to 200 Tdi diesel

got a new bumper and a good rust free bonnet,


here is the beast in its natural habitat