Thread: 2.6 Engine Improvements

Gav or Diana,

Do the 2.6 have the same clutch and flywheel as the two and a quarter?
If not do you have any idea on the weight and dimensions of the flywheel on them?
I believe they have a ton of torque and will break axles easily.

Cheers, Mick.

No idea about the flywheel and clutch Mick. I have a brand new clutch that came with the other engine I have and the clutch off this on is also quite serviceable.

Torque wise, we're not talking V8 figures here so with normal road use at least I can't see it breaking axles that easily. It's got a Sals in the back - that's not going anywhere.

Hi Guys,

the 6 cyl flywheel is different to a 4 cylinder type.
The 4 cyl has 8 locating bolts whereas the 2.6 has 6.
The 4 cyl flywheel is both thicker and heavier and the ring gear is set in a different position.
The 6 cyl uses a 9.5 inch driven plate and a diaphram type pressure plate, the same as a late Series Three 4 cylinder.
The 4 cyl diesel uses a heavier diaphram.

The 2.6 valve timing is:
Inlet opens 12 BTDC
Inlet closes 46 ABDC
Duration 238 degrees
Ex opens 47 BBDC
Ex closes 17 ATDC
Duration 244 degrees

I can get cams ground to:
Inlet opens 17 BTDC
Inlet closes 58 ABDC
Duration 264 degrees
Ex opens 67 BBDC
Ex closes 26 ATDC
Duration 264 degrees

This gives a noticable increase from 2000 rpm upwards with a slight loss of power under 1500 rpm.

The biggest gain comes from porting (especially exhaust) and a good free flow exhaust system.

Gav - if you scrape the crown of a piston it should be stamped with either std or an oversize. Likewise the big end and main bearing shells should be stamped on the back.
Piston land clearance is critical in controlling oil consumption.

A few photos for your interest.........














Regards,

Cookey

Originally Posted by mick88

Gav or Diana,

Do the 2.6 have the same clutch and flywheel as the two and a quarter?
If not do you have any idea on the weight and dimensions of the flywheel on them?
I believe they have a ton of torque and will break axles easily.

Cheers, Mick.

A ton of torque have you not driven one
Come on a 2.25 will break axles

Great info Cookey, that engine looks like a ripper. Who do you use for the camshafts or can you supply one? Are you interested in doing some work to the head I have? What sort of work do you do to the exhaust ports - port matching to the extractors? Is this easy enough or shall I drop the block off to you too.

Oh, final question - how do I get the square looking coolant pipe out from the block - the one behind the water pump backing plate that runs all the way to the back. The block has a lot of crud in the coolant passages and I want to fully strip the block so I can have it tanked to clean it out fully.

Thanks heaps.

Ok, big end bearings marked standard, the mains have no such markings, just 'rover' and a part number so assuming standard - I'll measure the crank when I remove it.

Pistons only have a C and the piston number (1 through 6) on them which is something I've seen in other engines with factory Pistons still in them, so assuming these too are standard, but again, I'll measure them up.

So, regarding oil consumption, are you saying a good hone and new rings won't surfice? Are oversize Pistons readily available and if so, what sort of price? Looks like a full rebuild now... . Hopefully the crank is fine and requires no machining.

Oh well, you can't take your money with you...

Originally Posted by bacicat

Great info Cookey, that engine looks like a ripper. Who do you use for the camshafts or can you supply one? Are you interested in doing some work to the head I have? What sort of work do you do to the exhaust ports - port matching to the extractors? Is this easy enough or shall I drop the block off to you too.

Oh, final question - how do I get the square looking coolant pipe out from the block - the one behind the water pump backing plate that runs all the way to the back. The block has a lot of crud in the coolant passages and I want to fully strip the block so I can have it tanked to clean it out fully.

Thanks heaps.

Gav, the exhaust ports will require quite a bit of reworking and enlarging all the way from the valve throat to the manifold face.

I can get a cam ground for you.

The copper water pipe is in two pieces and each section must be removed from its relevant end of the block. This pipe is extremely important as it directs coolant flow to the areas around the exhaust valves. The sections join together where they curve around the distributor drive.

Cookey

So I should be able to pry them out from each end then? I'll see if I can work them loose.

Maybe it's easier if I call you - I'm an unemployed bum for 4 days now until I start my new job, so I'll call you this week. Any day or time that suits better than others?