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I agree with Dark61, nice work, I enjoy the updates to this thread. Especially the pics :) I like pics :)
If I could ask a quick question as well.....
What pressure do you pressure test your tank to? I'm assuming you just hose clamp some innertube or something to most of the holes and use a compressor and tyre guage to pressurize and monitor for leaks?
I usually pressure test to 15psi. That's usually more than enough to find leaks.Quote:
Originally Posted by debruiser
Have a look at the rating on your radiator cap. That will give you an idea as to what pressure the cooling system has to cope with.
Just a run of the mill arc welder for all chassis repairs. The metal is around 2mm thick, so with a small rod - 1.5mm and around 40 to 50 amps I get good penetration. Slow and steady work, but doable. Thinner stuff - like the fuel tank repair/mods are done at a mates workshop with his MIG.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark61
Used 2 methods. First was filling it with water and sticking a few PSI (not really sure - 5 to 10 maybe?) into it with a hose - nothing scientific. No leaks found, so emptied and cleaned out and dried. Then plugged all the holes up and left a manometer on it overnight. It didn't drop at all, so I know it is both liquid and gas tight.Quote:
Originally Posted by debruiser
Just sitting here thinking about the brakes. As I'm putting disk brakes up the front, will the 3" brakes from the front end bolt up to the back? Backing plates, the whole lot? The front brakes and drums are like new, and the rear brakes and drums are, well, not...
Just a thought...
The front brakes are two leading shoe, the rear brakes one leading one trailing. This means that on the original setup, you have only one pair of effective brake shoes when going backwards. Fit the front brakes with discs, and two leading shoes on the back, and you would have effectively no rear brakes when going backwards.Quote:
Originally Posted by bacicat
Think about the situation going up a steep hill, especially heavily loaded. Trying to hold it on front brakes only - and if the engine stops for any reason, and you make the mistake of pressing the pedal a couple of times ---- no brakes, and you are stalled on a steep hill.
The change would certainly require engineering, and I cannot see any competent engineer approving it. I am not sure what would be needed to change to one leading/one trailing, but I doubt it would be easy.
John
Thanks John, that's something I never thought of. I'll just rebuild the standard back brakes then. :)
Did some work on the car with father over the last few days, here's just some pics to show what we've done:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1418638093
Removed the rear dif and propped the chassis up.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1418638093
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1418638093
Put the tray back on for now to use as a nice work bench, pretty handy actually :p
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1418638093
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1418638093
Gave it a quick tub.
Tonight we stripped the rear brakes and hubs, checked diff centre. Ready for cleaning and rebuilding.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1418638717
Handy work bench.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1418638717
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1418638717
I see your glass needs refilling,,, ;)
Great progress - nice looking axle stands!
:)