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Water pump is rebuildable - but I'm not sure whether you can get kits. From memory the kit comprises shaft with bearings, seal, and gasket.
The impeller is not included but there is a slight possibility this is beyond use - the seal seals against this, and if it has stood unused for a long time the mating surface may be pitted beyond reclamation on a lathe,
Kits are available and include the impeller Water pump repair kit - 8/9 stud - Paddock Spares
Pumps aren't that expensive so unless it's a 6-cylinder pump or an early 8-stud pump I'm not sure it's worthwhile rebuilding them.
Colin
I fitted a kit to my 2A's water pump, and as it never had a new impeller in the kit, i faced/dressed the front of the old one.
It was a few years ago now, but i recall the shaft in the kit was a larger diameter too, 5/8 from memory,
as opposed to 9/16, so i had to bore the old impeller out to fit.
PS..well worth fitting fitting quality grade hoses too, Mackay from Repco or Bursons, etc.
Cheers, Mick.
Thanks for the replies.
Will fit new one, and look at a kit for the old one.
Caught up with Ralph and his two Games.
Ralph has a mobile, but that's where it ends.
Got a PCV valve and a New fitting for the heater hose.
I gave him double he wanted, but wasn't really happy for me to do so. But i know the value of these Items.
Will call back soon (In Gilbert) as its nice to pick his brains.
Unknown Bracket I posted turned out to be, Fuel Tank Expansion tank tube protector.
Gilbert never had an expansion tank fitted. Now know what it look like and where fitted.
Learning heaps.
Gilbert original Rego plate was GIL 081
Called to Rego Office. GIL 080 and Gil 082 available, but some B*****D has grabbed it. Std Plate. Yellow and black will match paint colour.
MY 1977 Honda same yellow.[smilebigeye]
whitehillbilly
Frustrating day on Gilbert.
Fuel pump which I put a kit including valves, will work fine off engine but no go when fitted. Looking for air leaks. seems to work ok one minute then stops pumping. If I remove line from carby and put my thumb over the end and pump, on releasing thumb squirts everywhere, but wont fill up the after martet fuel filter.
Grabbed one off the 75 S3 and will clean it up and fit, as I knows it works ok. See if it changes anything.
So one for the brains trust.
On turning the motor over, on the battery, the distributor moves. I mean the whole body oscillates
I set up vertical drive shaft gear and drive shaft coupling as per the manual.
The only way it runs true, is to turn the coupling 180 degrees.
But now the rotor points at no 4 firing position. But carby doesn't oscillate.
Back to the correct position and the problem returns. You can see it looking down the tube.
and with my finger down the tube, I can feel its not right.
With the coupling removed finger carefully down the tube everything runs true. I had wondered if something was bent.
It felt like it wasn't sitting properly, so off to the 75 S3 pull off some bit and try again.
Same problem, so started bashing my Bald head a bit.
A burr some where, so lightly tidied up things. Still the same.
It was like the Vertical drive shaft was 180 out, but why ? and why oscillating in one of the two positions.
So I later into the afternoon after a few Cups of Tea and Monte carlows, I grabbed a straight edge and my digital calipers.
My discovery was the slot adjoining drive shaft and coupling was also not center. Actually 1mm off set.
So to correct the problem was to turn the drive shaft 180. What a PITA.
NOT HAPPY JAN !!!!
Earlier I had look for a coupling on a 2a Military, but it was completely different with a gear drive not slot, hence a trip to the 75 S3.
But, I had noticed the vertical shaft on Gilberts engine had the slot and the gear drive cut in ????
So I popped in the coupling from the 2a, it will only go one way, large double spline.
S**t still pointing to No 4 firing position. with No 1 0ne, TDC on compression.
Another cuppa and Monty and Think time.
whitehillbilly
Had wondered about making No 4 position, no 1 lead. Wasn't sure if it could be done.
My solution was to use earlier Gear coupling, and triangular plate. Grind out a tooth gap, between double spline. Now can be set in any position.
Turn 180 and install it and dissy.
Now Rotor in No 1 position ( Facing No 1 Cylinder) at No 1 TDC firing position.
Any Thoughts ????
whitehillbilly
Just change the leads position. Be aware that on some engines the timing marks when lined up on the chain or gears are actually 180° out on the dizzy. For instance if u insert the dizzy on a red holden motor with the timing marks lined up on the gears the dizzy will be 180°out. Same on the v8s. The dizzy is timed on no. 6 for 6 cyl and no. 4 for holden v8. Or no. 6 for chev v8 and no. 4 on starfire 4cyl. Dunno about fords. I found my 2.25 petrol engine is timed on no. 4.
Hi Rod
'I found my 2.25 petrol engine is timed on no. 4'
'Please explain' ????
So as a mere peasant, like myself Baldrick, may understand M Lord...........
Thanks.
whitehillbilly
Shane the keyed/slotted adaptor in the drive mechanism is offset so you cannot put the dizzy in the wrong way and have it firing on an exhaust stroke.
If you have the rotor pointing at the back of the dizzy when no 1 piston is on a compression stroke your drive gear needs rotating 180 degrees.
Do this by removing the dizzy, the adaptor piece, and the triangle shaped (three bolt) alloy housing, then with long nose pliers remove the gear (it winds out) and rotate it 180 degrees and wind it back in. It's best to mark it with a texta before removal so you know when you have it in the opposite position.
Also ideal to have no. 1 at TDC in case you get ballsed up or distracted by a saucy blonde walking by ;)
Before the drive gear will lift out you need to remove the oil filter alloy housing and unscrew the long locating bolt that locates the drive gear.
You don't need to remove or drain the oil filter, the whole assembly lifts off ok with a "minimal" mess ;)
I recently went through this whole exercise on my 2A as i switched from a magnetic circuit breaker to a set of stock points, and thus the dizzy was out of sync because of it. The magnetic unit pics up when the dizzy cam is on the flats, not the high points, so mine ended up 45 degrees out, meaning the vacuum advance assembly was pointing into the engine block.
Getting the locating bolt back into it's correct locating position on the drive gear is easy enough after a couple of go's.......
Maybe even after a Cuppa and a few Monte Carlo's, to avoid you going to "Hell" for "Blasphemy" . ;)
Give me a call if you can't follow this and i will explain it better (i hope) over the phone.
PM sent with my contact number.
Cheers, Mick.
When a 4 cyl engine is on TDC two pistons are up top. No. 1 and No. 4. The crank turns twice to the cam shaft turning once. If you line up the timing marks on the chain and sprockets, ( not the timing cover), you will find the camshaft is actually on firing stroke for No. 4 cyl. Meaning the valves for No. 4 cyl are closed and the valves for No. 1 cyl are on the rock. This is why lots of ppl get the dizzy in 180°out. Just change the leads around is easiest. As long as the dizzy isnt wobbling around coz that would mean u have the offset key incorrectly fitted.Quote:
Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64
Cheers Rod