Reply With QuoteTo replace the rivets I just used metric 4mm, easy to get taps for those.
Cheers,
TimJ.
ChatterBox
Few engine parts painted and ready to go.
Front 'MUD' plate was missing. So knocked out the rivets.
I am going to tap the holes and put some threaded screws in.
UNF or UNC thread the best.
Brass, steel or stainless ????
Any one got a plate they want to sell ????
You can see the colour difference in pic 3, Green original to blue, new.
How do you pull the water pump apart ????
whitehillbilly64
Wizard
To replace the rivets I just used metric 4mm, easy to get taps for those.
Cheers,
TimJ.
Snowy - 2010 Range Rover Vogue
Clancy - 1978 Series III SWB Game.
Henry - 1976 S3 Trayback Ute with 186 Holden
Gumnut - 1953 Series I 80"
Poverty - 1958 Series I 88"
Barney - 1979 S3 GS ex ADF with 300tdi
Arnie - 1975 710M Pinzgauer
ChatterBox
Thanks for the reply Tim.
When using the feeler gauges, to locate the rear bearing cap,
what size should I choose.
Thanks
whitehillbilly64
ChatterBox
Hi,
starting the 2.2/5 rebuild tomorrow.
Just checking the thrust washer recesses go to the outside.
That the way they came out.
Any other hints, on fitting the crank, bearings and seals.
Read the manual several times.
Thanks.
whitehillbilly64
ChatterBox
Painted block.
Master
Mmmmm, a cleaned and painted block to start with. Suuuupppppeeeeeerrrr sexy
ChatterBox
The T seals for the rear main cap are rubber not cork.
Was this a later improvement ????
Still use the oil and feller gauge method to install the rear cap ????
Thanks.
whitehillbilly64
Lord Jock
I did one recently and made up a couple of aluminum blocks/guides to ease the seals down into place. Basically the same method as using feeler gauges but made it bit easier.Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64
Cheers, Mick.
1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
1971 S2A 88
1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
1972 S3 88 x 2
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
REMLR 88
1969 BSA Bantam B175
Lord Jock
Pretty sure there wasn't one on the motor I did, but when I replaced it I added a couple of drops of "service removable" Loctite.
Cheers, Mick.
1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
1971 S2A 88
1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
1972 S3 88 x 2
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
REMLR 88
1969 BSA Bantam B175
ChatterBox
Thanks for the reply Mick.
Well Rear Crank Seal is in.
Glad I had 3 sets of 'T' seals, for the rear main cap.
Spring joined no problem. Seal fitted and spring added.
Upper Seal retainer fitted to the block and lower one to the cap, with lots of 515 gasket sealer.
Lots of oil but, the first two rubber set were not so good.
Last cork ones slid in no problems. Maybe it was the practice.
Tried 10 thou each side on the rubber ones, but seemed to tight.
Tore 1, 'T' seal in half.
Dropped to 5 thou and things went a bit better with the second rubber set, but I pulled them out as there seem to be a lot protruding out the top. Thought it had broken also.
Slight damage on the rubber, so decided to go the cork 3rd set.
5 thou again, lots of oil, and the cork ones slid in easy.
Checked the seal and it seemed all nice and square.
Every thing torqued up.
Excess cork trimmed to 30 thou using small washer and Stanley knife blade.
Next job, pistons and conrod bearings.
whitehillbilly64
Posting Permissions
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks