Gilbert

Hi,
Pulled off the brake drums tonite.
New Cylinders on the rears, new shoes all the way round.
The brake peddle feels good with everything adjusted.
Rear right adjuster cam nearly locks the wheel then jumps to nothing. Is it common for these to go ???? Are right and left different ????
Front left had locked up again, I suspect I need to replace the cylinder, as it looked corroded, I think its moving out, but not back. Bit of creaking when peddle is pushed, from that side.
Two prices from town, Repco, $37.00 each.
The other $50.00 each, probably quoting from the same book.
Where else could I try ??? Who do YOU use ????
$37.00 each didn't seem to bad, but what quality.
Thanks for your replies.

whitehillbilly64

The adjusters or 'snails' do wear, and are worth replacing.

Plenty of places online for parts - like - Roverparts - wheel cylinders

There are plenty of others.

Thanks again,
Will order a cylinder overhaul kit with a couple of bleeder screws and a few drum screws. I will pull it apart, lightly hone and fit the kit.
Do you know what size the anchor plate screws are, as some only had one fitted ????

whitehillbilly64

Sorry, I'm not good with bolt sizes. If I'm short I just take 1 down to the bolt shop and say 'another like this please...':D

It is worth changing the rubber brake hoses at the same time.
You problem wheel could be a hose that has delaminated internally causing a blockage and the shoes not to retract
That one caused me hours of fun....
Great report, please keep it going.
Phil

Hi, brake update,
Got the LH brake wheel cylinder apart. Tapping the pistons through and out from the one side and having it all fly apart and out onto the front yard, I managed to find the two pistons, old seals, two steel disks and the spring.

Soaking the flare nuts, with brake fluid for a couple of days, and then heating with my small blow torch ( advice from one of the Girls at work, she does own a Jeep ) I managed to undo the nuts.

I removed the cylinder, with the small length of steel pipe. ( Is it gal coated ???? )

With a bit more heat the bleed stud and Brake pipe nut undid.

More confusion, as the bleed stud appeared 8mm, the nut being 11mm.

My Imperial pipe spanners, seemed to loose, looking like the would spin on the Nuts.

The NEW bleed stud from Rover parts Australia, just push in the hole, seeming to be smaller than the original ones, which I cleaned up and will reuse, after I Hone the cylinder, and put the kit, I got from them, in.

Should check the seal size is correct first !!!!

whitehillbilly64

A lot of reproduction parts have odd metric screws (easier to obtain) so you'll find the bleed nipple on a wheel cylinder is often Metric.
Engine/gearbox mounts also have metric threads.

Brake cylinder seals don't appear to be a problem as the diameter relates directly to the braking force available so suppliers keep to the original size.

Colin

Thanks Colin,
The brake cylinders have Girling on them, so I guess original ????
After a small spin on my wire wheel, to clean up the outside,
and the inside polished with 600 wet and dry and WD40, the cylinder was sprayed with brake cleaner, blow with the air gun, the wiped with a clean cloth.
A small smear of brake fluid, and it was assembled and all appears to move smoothly, but a little tight with the new seals.
A small light blast with the air gun. and out the went, together nice and easy, again a little effort to get them back again.
I will get new brake fluid, and change the colour to yellow as the old one is blue, at least I will see when the old fluid is out of the system.
With the rebuilt cylinders, should I just let the fluid run into a jar until yellow, from the rubber pipe, then put the cylinder and steel brake pipe back on ????
Thanks.

whitehillbilly64

Quote:

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Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64

With the rebuilt cylinders, should I just let the fluid run into a jar until yellow, from the rubber pipe, then put the cylinder and steel brake pipe back on ????

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You'll have to bleed the new fluid through so you might as well assemble the cylinder & steel brakepipe.
I've done the same in the past (change brakefluid brand) because the colour change makes it easier to tell when the old is flushed out.

There are one-man brake bleeders available but I always get one of the young fella's to help. Transparent tubing is best because you can easily see if there are ail bubbles still in the fluid.
This one-man bleeder is OK, transparent with a rubber section to put over the nipple. Vizibleed Brake & Clutch Bleeder - One Man - Supercheap Auto Australia

Colin

Dont forget to change the rubber brake pipes. It will save you a world of pain later.
Phil