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Thread: Gilbert

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Northern NSW.Australia
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    1,637
    Hi,
    Pulled off the brake drums tonite.
    New Cylinders on the rears, new shoes all the way round.
    The brake peddle feels good with everything adjusted.
    Rear right adjuster cam nearly locks the wheel then jumps to nothing. Is it common for these to go ???? Are right and left different ????
    Front left had locked up again, I suspect I need to replace the cylinder, as it looked corroded, I think its moving out, but not back. Bit of creaking when peddle is pushed, from that side.
    Two prices from town, Repco, $37.00 each.
    The other $50.00 each, probably quoting from the same book.
    Where else could I try ??? Who do YOU use ????
    $37.00 each didn't seem to bad, but what quality.
    Thanks for your replies.

    whitehillbilly64

  2. #12
    Homestar's Avatar
    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Sunbury, VIC
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    17,650
    The adjusters or 'snails' do wear, and are worth replacing.

    Plenty of places online for parts - like - Roverparts - wheel cylinders

    There are plenty of others.


    1977 101 FC - 'Chucky'
    1986 Classic RR - 'Thing'
    1976 Series III Tray
    1997 Honda CBR1000F
    2003 L322 - Gone to a new home.

    'Love with your heart - use your head for everything else.' - CaptainDisillusion

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Northern NSW.Australia
    Posts
    1,637
    Thanks again,
    Will order a cylinder overhaul kit with a couple of bleeder screws and a few drum screws. I will pull it apart, lightly hone and fit the kit.
    Do you know what size the anchor plate screws are, as some only had one fitted ????

    whitehillbilly64

  4. #14
    Homestar's Avatar
    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
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    Sorry, I'm not good with bolt sizes. If I'm short I just take 1 down to the bolt shop and say 'another like this please...'


    1977 101 FC - 'Chucky'
    1986 Classic RR - 'Thing'
    1976 Series III Tray
    1997 Honda CBR1000F
    2003 L322 - Gone to a new home.

    'Love with your heart - use your head for everything else.' - CaptainDisillusion

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    982
    It is worth changing the rubber brake hoses at the same time.
    You problem wheel could be a hose that has delaminated internally causing a blockage and the shoes not to retract
    That one caused me hours of fun....
    Great report, please keep it going.
    Phil
    Phil B

    Custodian of:
    1974 S3 swb wagon (sold)
    1978 S3 swb canvas
    48 749 '88 4x4 Perentie
    1985 County with 4BD1T

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Northern NSW.Australia
    Posts
    1,637
    Hi, brake update,
    Got the LH brake wheel cylinder apart. Tapping the pistons through and out from the one side and having it all fly apart and out onto the front yard, I managed to find the two pistons, old seals, two steel disks and the spring.

    Soaking the flare nuts, with brake fluid for a couple of days, and then heating with my small blow torch ( advice from one of the Girls at work, she does own a Jeep ) I managed to undo the nuts.

    I removed the cylinder, with the small length of steel pipe. ( Is it gal coated ???? )

    With a bit more heat the bleed stud and Brake pipe nut undid.

    More confusion, as the bleed stud appeared 8mm, the nut being 11mm.

    My Imperial pipe spanners, seemed to loose, looking like the would spin on the Nuts.

    The NEW bleed stud from Rover parts Australia, just push in the hole, seeming to be smaller than the original ones, which I cleaned up and will reuse, after I Hone the cylinder, and put the kit, I got from them, in.

    Should check the seal size is correct first !!!!

    whitehillbilly64

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    4,920
    A lot of reproduction parts have odd metric screws (easier to obtain) so you'll find the bleed nipple on a wheel cylinder is often Metric.
    Engine/gearbox mounts also have metric threads.

    Brake cylinder seals don't appear to be a problem as the diameter relates directly to the braking force available so suppliers keep to the original size.

    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '60 SII 109 ute (gone)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Northern NSW.Australia
    Posts
    1,637
    Thanks Colin,
    The brake cylinders have Girling on them, so I guess original ????
    After a small spin on my wire wheel, to clean up the outside,
    and the inside polished with 600 wet and dry and WD40, the cylinder was sprayed with brake cleaner, blow with the air gun, the wiped with a clean cloth.
    A small smear of brake fluid, and it was assembled and all appears to move smoothly, but a little tight with the new seals.
    A small light blast with the air gun. and out the went, together nice and easy, again a little effort to get them back again.
    I will get new brake fluid, and change the colour to yellow as the old one is blue, at least I will see when the old fluid is out of the system.
    With the rebuilt cylinders, should I just let the fluid run into a jar until yellow, from the rubber pipe, then put the cylinder and steel brake pipe back on ????
    Thanks.

    whitehillbilly64

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    4,920
    Quote Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64 View Post
    With the rebuilt cylinders, should I just let the fluid run into a jar until yellow, from the rubber pipe, then put the cylinder and steel brake pipe back on ????
    You'll have to bleed the new fluid through so you might as well assemble the cylinder & steel brakepipe.
    I've done the same in the past (change brakefluid brand) because the colour change makes it easier to tell when the old is flushed out.

    There are one-man brake bleeders available but I always get one of the young fella's to help. Transparent tubing is best because you can easily see if there are ail bubbles still in the fluid.
    This one-man bleeder is OK, transparent with a rubber section to put over the nipple. Vizibleed Brake & Clutch Bleeder - One Man - Supercheap Auto Australia

    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '60 SII 109 ute (gone)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    982
    Dont forget to change the rubber brake pipes. It will save you a world of pain later.
    Phil

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