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Hi Whitehillbilly,Quote:
Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64
Mine has a bolt on each leg, but I doubt it makes much difference either way, as long as the bolts are not over tightened before final adjustment, so the unit can pivot when adjusted. Getting a single bolt just the right length might be tricky, two is easier.
Cheers
C00P
Thanks gents.
Coop, I fitted it with one Bolt On each leg, got new bolts,washers and nylocs.
Can adjust with two half inch spanners.
Which terminal Post did you use for the warning light ?
Mick, found a couple of picks in my two manuals. Show bracket coming off top Bolt of timing plate.
Wondered why bottom one had locking tab, but not the top one.
Whitehillbilly
Shane with a single bolt on the bottom bracket you will need a tube spacer between them otherwise overtightening may result in breaking the brackets on the alternator body.
Cheers, Mick.
Thanks,
Two bolts on legs, Mick.
Well nearly at the Start !!!!
Just front/rear differential and steering box,with steering left.
All Ball joints cracked and the steering damper removed. Top end of shaft a bit rusty, but still seems to work ok, so will clean up and repaint.
All leaf Spring nuts undone but some seems to be seized on bushes, as nut rotates, but won't tap out.
Inner part of Bush turning maybe. Is this a common problem, as I may have to cut bolts.
A couple of the Shackle plates seem rusted to Bolt, might need a bit of heat.
Next job, move into shed. Rear diff in place.
Take off front diff, set front chassis on stands, measure front dumb iron Bolt holes from ground, and alignment and , cut off and replace front end.
Tack in place, remove rear diff, turn chassis allowing underside repairs.
Cut out chassis bushes, poly replacements.
Scary
Then sand blast and gal, or wire brush, derust and paint. Had been painted before, overall seems it will tidy up good.
The chassis is in better condition than first thought.
Pics to follow.
Whitehillbilly
The spring shackle bolts are threaded into the shackle plates where the nuts are so they should unscrew but not so on the front bushes on the springs where they bolt through the chassis. The nuts on the shackle plates act like lock nuts for the bolts. Have fun.
Just a thought, while you have the front cut off the chassis why not clean out the rails as there will be 40+yrs of gunk in them.
Cheers Rod
Sent from my GT-P5110 using AULRO mobile app
Good job the big hammer didn't come out:o.
The rails look goodinside, have hosed them a couple of time, and because I have cut the rust out of the rear Cross member, I can see a long way in with torch.
The two sides of the lower chassis section had rusted, spare cut away.
Thanks for the idea.
Pluuled out the wiring from the chassis rail.
No wonder the rear lights wouldn't work. One would of as they were chewed and melted together.
Whitehillbilly
Well Gilbert is in the shed, ready for chassis work.
with the Landy flat, with all wheels on concrete it appears to lean to the L/H side by about 30mm.
I looked at the front springs and noticed one leaf, on the right is longer by 80mm, which must cause the front to sit up on the Driver/fuel tank side.
The whole chassis appeared to sit 30mm lower, but comparing the rear springs, the leaf's appear the same.
so I jacked up the L/H side until I had level across the front chassis rails ( 30mm approx. ) This levelled out the whole chassis.
now to take measurements before cutting.
whitehillbilly
Be aware that all Series Landrovers have different right and left springs, to compensate for the uneven weight distribution sideways - battery, transfer case, fuel tank, driver all on right, only partly compensated for by the engine being slightly offset to the left.
John
Long time since I posted on my thread.
Busy at work and playing around with the other 2 SWB landies, but learning a lot about things.
Time to push Gilbert along a bit, as my Mitsubishi Challenger went under water in the Murwillumbah flooding, along with 100 odd cars parked on the same bit of road.
It was parked well above the 54 flood height, but now we have a new record flood height.
Several have commented, if it was Gilbert flooded, I would be JUST washing out the mud, and driving him home.
This weekend will pull off rear diff and start welding chassis. Also look at the dreaded suspension bushes.
Have poly's to go back in.
Just wondering if the springs fit a certain way. Did notice a part number on them. Does it sit towards the front or rear, or can they be fitted either way round ????
Front and rear diffs appear ok, little leak through gasket.
What should i do to service them, and how many degrees of free play is acceptable in the shaft ????
Sure more questions to roll in.
Thanks for the replies.
Whitehillbilly
Progress on the Chassis.
But some axle bolts needed cutting.
Front chassis bushes out, 3 hrs later.
Best way was drill rubber, Two cuts in outer bush with hacksaw, then chisel cut piece out with old wood chisel.
Rear will be quicker.
Poly bushes will fit in nicely, and easy to replace.
With the rear diff off I can turn the chassis.
had a mate bend up some pieces of steel to add to Chassis rails. A little cutting and fit perfectly.
Now to practice my welding.
But ****, I'm a good grinder [bigsmile]
whitehillbilly