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Thread: Gilbert

  1. #1
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    Gilbert

    Gilbert has arrived.

    whitehillbilly64
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  2. #2
    Homestar's Avatar
    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Gold Subscriber
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    Nice.. What are the plans? Restoration or preservation?


    1977 101 FC - 'Chucky'
    1986 Classic RR - 'Thing'
    1976 Series III Tray
    1997 Honda CBR1000F
    2003 L322 - Gone to a new home.

    'Love with your heart - use your head for everything else.' - CaptainDisillusion

  3. #3
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    Hi Bacicat,
    Restoration at this stage.
    It was bought for my 15yr old Daughters Birthday on the 16th
    She wants it all done up.
    Gets her L's this time next year.
    GIL081 was the last Rego Plate No ( 2005 )
    Her name choice.
    Holden 186 motor, which at the moment is a non runner and it has the Overdrive Lever.
    The Overdrive lever has three positions. Would one position run the PTO shaft to the rear ???? ( not fitted ) Would the pulley mounted at the back, be the same as my Grey Fergie one ????
    Will post some more photos over the weekend.
    Thanks for the reply.

    whitehillbilly

  4. #4
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    Welcome to the forum. Plenty of wise advice to be had here, although maybe not from me. My understanding is that the overdrive fits onto the gearbox in the same location that a PTO would fit. Meaning you can have one or the other but not both. The overdrive lever has 3 positions, disengaged, neutral and engaged. I'd also be interested if someone could explain the difference between disengaged and neutral.

    Enjoy your project.

  5. #5
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    Cessnock NSW
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    Chris, you are correct with the location of the O/drive, and there was an optional 'bottom PTO' which fitted where the sump plate is on the T/case, they were very expensive and few n far between.
    With regards to the 3 positions on the O/drive shift, engaged/neutral then disengaged means that the O/drive is not working, your power is being transmitted from the gearbox main shaft straight to the Intermediate gear in the T/case, I could be wrong as it has been around 30 years since owning a Land Rover fitted with O/drive, cheers Dennis
    Nice Series 3 there as well,,.

  6. #6
    Homestar's Avatar
    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Gold Subscriber
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    Cool - I'm helping my 16 yo Son restore a Series III as well at the moment. Hoping to have it done by the time he gets his licence.


    1977 101 FC - 'Chucky'
    1986 Classic RR - 'Thing'
    1976 Series III Tray
    1997 Honda CBR1000F
    2003 L322 - Gone to a new home.

    'Love with your heart - use your head for everything else.' - CaptainDisillusion

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Northern NSW.Australia
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    Hi,
    Having a few problems, getting off the left hand brake drum.
    This wheel, was binding from the start.
    Have backed off the brake adjuster completely, but still the hub is tight.
    Next step it to undo the brake line, hopefully allowing the pads to reduce slightly
    I tried tapping the drum with a rubber/plastic hammer, getting only a small movement.
    Removing the 3 drum screws, I noticed another small threaded hole.
    The bolts I tried, from my collection were either slightly to small or big.
    I imagine it's a imperial UNC thread, so could someone please tell me the correct size, or do you use one of the 3 screws holding the drum.
    Any other ideas for the drum removal.
    Thank for your comments.

    Whitehillbilly64

  8. #8
    Homestar's Avatar
    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Gold Subscriber
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    Not sure of the bolt size, but yes, screw a bolt in that hole and wind some pressure onto it, then belt the bejesus out of the drum. Mine were stuck like that and they took some work to remove. Give the rubber mallet a miss - you simply won't get the punch you need. I used a mash hammer and a block of wood.


    1977 101 FC - 'Chucky'
    1986 Classic RR - 'Thing'
    1976 Series III Tray
    1997 Honda CBR1000F
    2003 L322 - Gone to a new home.

    'Love with your heart - use your head for everything else.' - CaptainDisillusion

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    23,065
    The thread is the same as the countersunk screws, from memory, 3/8" BSW. Do what bacicat suggests. Use the threaded hole to push the drum off on that side, then belt the drum outside the screw to get the opposite side to move out, then screw some more, etc. Can take a while.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  10. #10
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    Thanks for the suggestions.
    As John, mentioned, same as the counter sunk screws.
    Found a bolt then tapped from the opposite side. Nothing was moving, to far, but enough to look between the gap to see the Trailing shoe was grabbing, moving out with the Brake Drum.
    By a fluke, the Drum rotated forward, coming out a little.
    Screwed the bolt a little more, rotated forward and pulling outwards, after a couple of goes, it was off.
    The Trailing shoe then flopped backwards.
    where was the spring ????
    A quick look in the online manuals, I worked out the Trailing shoe Anchor Plate had been put forward, bolted the bottom of the leading shoe, not to the rear Trailing shoe. The brake pads look quite new, so maybe the mistake was made fitting them.
    The design, does appear that if backing up, it could grab ???? Locking the wheel, or does correctly adjusting the brakes remove this problem.

    whitehillbilly64

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