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Thread: Steering rod removal

  1. #1
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    Steering rod removal

    Hi Again

    I cannot get 595123 off the steering box .. Any ideas

    Craig
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  2. #2
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    Hydraulic 3 leg puller should get it off.


    I've got one here if your close by. Logan,QLD
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
    ------------
    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.

  3. #3
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    Supacheap or Repco

    Craig,

    Hello from Denpasar - over here for a week or so.

    There are several threads relating to this around the site.

    Common action is to get a cheap idler arm puller from Supercheap or Repco (~$20) and carefully remove a little off each side of the jaws to get the right gap to clear the arm - I have forgotten the specific clearance, but it's in the various threads hereabouts.

    I did this recently and it worked just fine - put some pressure on the arm, maybe some WD40 and give it a good tap with a hammer and (usually) off it pops.

    Cheers,

  4. #4
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    I having the same problem. I refitted a reco steering box to the defender this weekend and found out the ball joint on the end of the drop arm is cactus. I cannot get the drop arm off the old box without either a press or puller. I am going to take it to the mechanic to do when I exchange the old box over. Seems to be a common issue though some are lucky and can get it off. An angle grinder seems to be a common tool used. It is annoying as I have ground to a halt waiting for a new ball joint.


  5. #5
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    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Subscriber
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    I've got a fixed 2 jaw puller that fits this - and the pitman arms on RRC / Disco steering boxes, etc. I had to wind that up to breaking point, then smack the arm with a mash hammer to get it to move - they can be very tight. If it's stuck like mine was, you're on a hiding to nothing without a puller of some description.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  6. #6
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    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
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  7. #7
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    Thanks guys

  8. #8
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    Take your time

    Quote Originally Posted by bacicat View Post
    I had to wind that up to breaking point, then smack the arm with a mash hammer to get it to move - they can be very tight.
    Hello again from Surabaya.

    I used a modified puller as suggested by Gromit (post #6) on mine which was also on tight.

    Put the pressure on, sprayed it with WD40 and left it overnight. All it then took was a single hit with a hammer and it popped off.

    It's a tapered fit, so really shouldn't require a full scale assault.

    Cheers,

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by S3ute View Post
    Hello again from Surabaya.

    I used a modified puller as suggested by Gromit (post #6) on mine which was also on tight.

    Put the pressure on, sprayed it with WD40 and left it overnight. All it then took was a single hit with a hammer and it popped off.

    It's a tapered fit, so really shouldn't require a full scale assault.

    Cheers,
    It was far from a full scaled assault.

    Just saying they can be bloody tight - it popped off after a couple of good hits, but I was using a decent hammer too...
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  10. #10
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    The mechanic got mine off today. He had a puller on it and then had to apply heat and it literally popped off. There was no way it was coming off with a hammer!
    Have ordered a new ball joint and will replace this hopefully by the end of the week and then back on the road.

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