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Thread: Right Door Window - the removable top bit

  1. 9th March 2015, 09:24 AM #1
    Andrea II 88
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    Right Door Window - the removable top bit

    Hi guys,

    Bit of a question here.
    I started to have a look at how the car would look like without the top bits (where the window is) of the doors and actually it looks pretty good! Also the air flow inside the cabin makes every trip quite enjoyable under the Sydney sun!

    The passenger side went off quite easily but the driver side was pretty rust-swollen and one of the bolts just snapped under my immense and brute force (!!) ahah!
    Noticed three man made very small holes on the top of the door and probably water entered there and caused the rust..

    Anyway, one bolt will still be fine to hold everything in place but I was wondering If I should just get another thread welded on or just buy another complete part off ebay.. See picture for probably better understanding what I ma talking about.

    Also, took off the entire truck/ute cabin yesterday. 30 minutes and the car become a beautiful cabrio truck! Very surprised to see no rust at all the seals doing their job. Total different ride and everybody on the road admiring the beauty!
    maybe the Labrador at the back helped :-)

    Andrea
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  2. 9th March 2015, 07:55 PM #2
    S3ute's Avatar
    S3ute
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    Common problem

    Hello from Brisbane.

    Rusty door tops are common because water and crud builds up under the felt slide rails - the three holes are meant to be drain holes but may well be blocked. So, the water really didn't get in through there unless it was going the wrong way.

    Depending on how bad the rust is you may be better seeking out replacement tops from a wreck or Rocky Mountain tops if you are feeling rich - they are aluminium and have both panes free to slide giving better airflow.

    Cheers,
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  3. 17th March 2015, 05:16 AM #3
    Phil B
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    As has been said this is a common problem
    The studs can be replaced and the rust fixed but a far better option are the Rocky Mountain tops
    They are expensive ($600) but well worth it IMHO.No more rattles and wind noise
    Phil
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  4. 17th March 2015, 08:55 AM #4
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    gromit
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    RM doortops are the business but........the standard door top is quite cheap in the UK, freight adds significantly but still ends up cheaper than buying locally.

    2005R | Door Top, alloy clad, unglazed RH - Series 3

    Seal up most of the holes and pour some paint in, move it around so that every area inside is covered then leave it to drain. Remove tape & clean up any paint that's leaked out (& check the drain holes are clear) then paint the doortop and then finally add some cavity wax to the inside.
    Refit the old glass into new runners and it should last for ages.
    2005BDT | Window Channel suitable for 1 Front Door Top
    You need the lower runner with a hole cut in for the lock on the SIII, I'm sure I've found this on Paddocks website previously.

    Grease up the bolts when fitting and the doortop should come off easily in future.

    Colin
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  5. 17th March 2015, 12:16 PM #5
    S3ute's Avatar
    S3ute
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    DYI

    Quote Originally Posted by gromit View Post
    You need the lower runner with a hole cut in for the lock on the SIII, I'm sure I've found this on Paddocks website previously.
    Hello again from Brisbane.

    You don't really need to go looking for lower channel with the slots pre-cut for the locking pin - just get the channel kit which is universal for S2 and S3 and cut a small square slot where the pin goes through the lower channel. If the originals are not totally knackered they can act as guide to where the hole is meant to be located - otherwise guesstimate it.......

    Cheers,
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  6. 25th March 2015, 11:22 PM #6
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    SG1 Bones
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrea II 88 View Post
    Hi guys,

    Bit of a question here.
    I started to have a look at how the car would look like without the top bits (where the window is) of the doors and actually it looks pretty good! Also the air flow inside the cabin makes every trip quite enjoyable under the Sydney sun!

    The passenger side went off quite easily but the driver side was pretty rust-swollen and one of the bolts just snapped under my immense and brute force (!!) ahah!
    Noticed three man made very small holes on the top of the door and probably water entered there and caused the rust..

    Anyway, one bolt will still be fine to hold everything in place but I was wondering If I should just get another thread welded on or just buy another complete part off ebay.. See picture for probably better understanding what I ma talking about.

    Also, took off the entire truck/ute cabin yesterday. 30 minutes and the car become a beautiful cabrio truck! Very surprised to see no rust at all the seals doing their job. Total different ride and everybody on the road admiring the beauty!
    maybe the Labrador at the back helped :-)

    Andrea
    G'day, I have just replaced (last month) my passengers side with a scavenger door top from my 109a and bought the door top from AllFourx4.com.au aluminium lined it cost me $110 plus postage(about $25 to Brisbane). I recommend that you replace the door top to prevent you having to pull out the glazing later when the door top gets too rusty (I was faced with this dilemma). I was also recommended to not screw the Bailey channel in but glue it so I screwed the top only (so it will be easier to replace any broken windows in the future), I then screwed and glued (to seal it better) the side and just glued the bottom. I cut the Bailey with tin snips and for the latch I just pre drilled the hole to get started. I now have to just finish the drivers side with the new top.

    If you have any questions feel free to ask.

    - Bailey channel was purchased at M.R. Automotive, Redcliffe for about $30 per door.
    - door top as mentioned above purchased from AllFourx4 (Sydney I think) $110 +ph.
    - Glue used something like Sikaflex 11FC minimum. They do have automotive body adhesive but my three tubes were dried up.
    All the best
    Nathan
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