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hi i have full power steering on my s3 from a toyota 60series also slunnie has 1 on his 2a aswell..i just finished getting all mine engineered it passed fine..i have a link to some pics but if you search on here you will find the ones i have posted..its not to hard as long as you can weld compertantly.price wise it all depends. anyway here is a link to my pics i hope they help..
Pictures by mebanjo - Photobucket
Quote:
Originally Posted by banjo
Banjo,
If you don't mind me asking, what was through cost of your power steering installation? what parts did you actually have to get (specifically speaking).
and how does it go?
Jim
I would start by jacking up both front wheels and seeing how heavy the steering is - it should be quite light, although definitely with some friction.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmy
If this is not the case, find out where the friction is, by disconnecting the steering at various "tie rod ends" (need a special puller for this or can be disconnected by belting the side of the arm where the tapered bit goes - but the puller can be got from Supercheap or similar for fairly small mone; just make sure it will fit over the arms on Landrovers). There should be no appreciable friction in the steeringbox - if there is, try putting some oil in it!
There should be definite friction in the relay unit, but should not be excessive. Again, try putting oil in it - this is done by removing two opposite bolts on the top plate and injecting oil in one until it comes out the other. If it appears to have been completely dry you might want to remove a bottom bolt and flush it through with light oil or diesel - if what comes out is too alarming or if there is any free play top or bottom, replacements are reasonably priced.
Disconnecting the steering damper should make no difference at steering rates of movement. If it does, there is no objection to leaving it off rather than replacing it - just be careful offroad; they were optional equipment through most of Series production.
If the swivels appear to be producing excessive drag, check the preload and adjust as necessary, ensuring there is oil in the swivels..
While doing this, remove all free play except for a centimetre or so on the wheel rim by adjusting the steering box and replacing bits as needed. Watch that the relay is not moving in the chassis and that the arms top and bottom are not loose. None of the tie rod ends should have any slack at all. Check toe in (see thread on adjusting camber on a 2a). Getting rid of free play will improve the steering markedly.
Put the front back on the ground, check the tyre pressure (I would use around 35 for radial 7.50x16) and see how it drives. The biggest influence on steering load, and the easiest to change, is tyre pressure.
By the way, you can reduce the clutch pedal pressure by fitting a remote brake power assistance unit such as the VH44. But before doing this I would ensure that both the pedal shaft and the trunnion that pushes the master cylinder are properly lubricated - it should be possible to remove the shaft with the pedal box in place, but might be easier to remove it. Mine has a grease nipple on it, but that is not in the manual.
Hope this helps
John
The parts i use where a power steering box off a toyota 60series 84 model that was $250 @ wreckers,steering colum is off a 80 model rangerover i got off ebay for $ 80 with sports steering wheel.i use a steering shaft off the same toyota that was $55 from the wreckers,i got a rangerover steering knuckle for $60 new,then cut the shaft to length & welded the knuckle to it..the steering colum is bolted useing the standard top landrover mount at top & i made a bracket to go where the origianal steering box was..toyota steering box has to be fitted with crush tubes to the chassis.you have to get some high tensile bolts plus plate both side of chassis.i also notched the front xmember to fit the bolts..you also have to have the steering shaft xrayed & possably magnetic partical test done.they cost me $300 to have done plus you have to engineer it that cost me $450 but that was for all my mods not just the steering...how does it go well it lighter to steer than the wifes 4runner with power steering.oh you also have to make up a drag link & it will have to be out of 4140 steel..
overall it works great & i wouldnt go back to standard steering ever again..would i do it again yep i am looking for another rover SWB for my 14yr old daughter & we will be doing it for hers aswel..
Ok i will try to explain best i can how i did the conversion.I already had the car stripped down if you dont you will have to remove all the front panels.I also had the pats i used a steering box off a 60 series landcruiser & a steering colum out of a 72 model RR & the steering shaft is a 60 series landcruiser aswell..Then remove all steering from the steering wheel to the relay leave the relay for now.Then remove the front leg of the battery cradle closest to the front on the outside of the chassis.
http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/7272/665f.jpg
Now put the steering box up on the outside of the chassis & line up the centre of the holes of the two steering arms & mark the bolt holes of the box & pilot drill them..
Now we need to cut the relay out.
http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/4908/48253927.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/4898/34572728.jpg
Now we have to clean all the metal.
http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/2001/68672239.jpg
Ok now drill the holes for the steering box bolts & then enlarge then for some crush tubes i use some gal pipe i had that the bolts fitted snugly in but where 22mm outside diamater..
http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/322/81117955.jpg
http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/2466/72891473.jpg
They now need to be welded in..
http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/5796/46207621.jpg
http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/4322/82666640.jpg
They need to be cleaned up so you can weld some plate for extra strength i used 6mm wich you can see in this pic but i dont have pics of them welded on onthere own..
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
A pic of them welded on with the box in place with two bolts..
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/3381/63719238.jpg
Now we have to replace the metal we cut out with the relay.
http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/8369/91572658.jpg
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/238/42689037.jpg
http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/4172/96883085.jpg
Now paint & fit the box.
http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/9749/97608332.jpg
http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/1114/38096504.jpg
I don't have pics of this bit.I took the top bracket of the series 3 column & fitted it to the RR column..
Then fitted in place & made a bracket to suit the bottom bracket..
http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/852/20029441.jpg
http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/3590/39379711.jpg
http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/4796/98616987.jpg
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/4172/73440793.jpg
Now the steering shaft fit the Toyota end to the box & lean the other end on the shaft on the column..
http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/3573/17745842.jpg
http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/4536/33626574.jpg
You now have to fit the knuckle to the RR end of the column & cut the shaft to length & weld the knuckle to the Toyota shaft this has to be a perfect weld as it has to have a hardness test & xray..
I also removed the battery tray all together & fitted the battery in the back..
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/6152/19290597.jpg
http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/9929/30126080.jpg
Now its done..you have to cut the gaurd to go aroud the steering box.
http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/2432/12021682.jpg
http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/7043/98296195.jpg
You also have to make the drag link from box to wheel .I made mine fron 4140 steel with the rover thread on the wheel end & the toyota thread for the box end...
You just need to get some hoses for the pump it was easy for me as i have the holden engine so i didnt have to make brackets for the pump just the hoses..
This is my first big how to thread so if i have left something out or you need to know more just ask the pictures tell more than i could write..
i hope this helps someone who wants to convert to power steering..:D
Nice work Jason.:BigThumb: What next? Aircon and DVD player?:D
Great write up mate!!!
You really explained it well and made it actually seam like a fairly straight forward task. I always thought it would be a nightmare to do but this instills me with confidence :)
A much better system than using rams.
How will you go with the welding on the intermediate shaft?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
I thought that was a No-No.
Diana
Hey sleeps i got the pics sorted now..UM yeah we have a DVD player for it & i still have the aircon for the engine IT came with the engine when we brought it & i have looked into the aircon & it will get it later on..Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleepy