Thread: Electric Fuel pump rubber mounting bushes

err2337...........possibly

Lionel,

What you need is isolating mounts (there are various names for them). Bearing shops possibly stock them , I know mine does.
Rubber Mounts | Vibration Isolation
Probably have to accept that they will now be metric rather than imperial thread but this is only a minor detail.

Not sure how the Army ones were mounted but I wouldn't think it was rivnuts, more likely nuts welded into position.

No need to have a second pump, the original if working OK is sufficient.

Colin

Originally Posted by gromit

Lionel,

What you need is isolating mounts (there are various names for them). Bearing shops possibly stock them , I know mine does.
Rubber Mounts | Vibration Isolation
Probably have to accept that they will now be metric rather than imperial thread but this is only a minor detail.

Not sure how the Army ones were mounted but I wouldn't think it was rivnuts, more likely nuts welded into position.

No need to have a second pump, the original if working OK is sufficient.

Colin

Hello Colin,

Thank you for the reply and the link. From the catalogue they are described as "Stud Mounts" it mentions their use for mounting small pumps or fans.

It is a brand new pump.

The pump is mounted on a rear side of the cross member located near the rear of the fuel tank. The cross member is hollow and the bolts only go through one side and it would be very difficult to weld a nut internally. From what I saw on YouTube it looks like a rivnut with a silver concentric circle just inside the bolt hole.

Kind Regards
Lionel

Originally Posted by jboot51

err2337...........possibly

Hello Jboot 51,

Thank you for the part number. It was a bit cryptic for my wee brain for a moment. I took a punt and did an internet search for "Land Rover 2337" and it led me to the Rimmer Brother's site and the part has the same hex shape.

Mounting Rubber - Genuine Land Rover at www.rimmerbros.co.uk

The funny thing is that I thought you meant to write "Err ... 2337 ... possibly". However on another parts site the parts number is ERR2337 The part is described as "Mount air filter housing Land Rover Defender 300tdi ERR2337"

Thanks again Jboot

Kind Regards
Lionel

Hi Lionel,

If you want a tool to put rivnuts in then the type that is in the top right of the second picture is the type to go for. I have broken the handles on the type on the top left with larger rivnuts and the other tend to be very bulky and hard to get in to some places. I got a complete set from a place called Austral Tools on eBay. They have different kits and all the supplies as well. Good quality and they replaced a ratchet spanner that stopped working straight away without any issues.

Cheers,

TimJ.

Originally Posted by Timj

Hi Lionel,

If you want a tool to put rivnuts in then the type that is in the top right of the second picture is the type to go for. I got a complete set from a place called Austral Tools on eBay. They have different kits and all the supplies as well. Good quality and they replaced a ratchet spanner that stopped working straight away without any issues.

Cheers,

TimJ.

G'day Tim,

Thank you for the reply. I looked on YouTube and there is a Paddock's video about fitting rivnuts onto Land Rovers and they use a similar looking tool as to the Austral Tools one.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KeaMsvai0FA[/ame]
MEMfast Rivnut tool RNHT 48 / 410
Plus a new specialist segment [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OuWjCqaVSNw[/ame]

The Austral Tools site off eBay is M10 Minisert Blind Rivet NUT Nutsert Rivnut Manual Insertion Tool | eBay

I have attached a photograph of the remainder of where the fuel pump was held in by.

Kind Regards
Lionel

Lionel,
It does look like a Rivnut but why buy a tool when you can use the method shown at the beginning of the Paddocks video. A bolt & nut will do if you are only installing a couple of rivnuts.

I managed to borrow a tool years ago when I installed a few items in my Defender but have used the bolt & nut method since then. Something to consider is that they rely on the clamping pressure to stop them rotating. I always file the hole to make it a bit square, hopefully the crimping process flows the metal into the 'square' and then it is more likely to resist rotation.
The hole in the crossmember photo looks recessed so that the mount doesn't end up sitting on the edge of the rivnut but bears against the chassis (or maybe it's just a mark from the old mount ?).........

If I was retro-fitting I would bend up a bracket to mount the isolating mounts to and then weld that in place.


Colin

Originally Posted by gromit

Lionel,

If I was retro-fitting I would bend up a bracket to mount the isolating mounts to and then weld that in place.

Colin

Hello Colin,

Thanks for the reply. I am sans a welder, oxy, lathe, milling machine and other fun stuff.

The arrangement of the part ERR 2337 locates one set of threads going into the crossmember and then the fuel pump goes through the top set of bolts. This makes the fuel pump proud of the crossmember by the thickness of the rubber body of the part.

Kind Regards
Lionel