Meet Vincent the Stage 1 v8!

One freshly painted Bahama Gold bulkhead! We have had crappy weather coinciding with weekends for the last couple of months (all winter really:(:( ) so on Wednesday, with a forecast balmy 26 degrees and calm winds, I broke out the spray gun for a day of shed time :):).

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1476426279

After I have sprayed some fish oil into every orifice I can find, it will be reinstalled on the weekend and then I can start bolting stuff back on again.:D:D:D

Next challenge will be restoring the vinyl dash-top with a new covering. I have some new vinyl and intend to leave the old covering there, fill and smooth the cracks to get a smooth surface, then glue and shape new vinyl over the top of everything?

Happy times....

Whitehillbilly posted some links to dash re-covering.
Haven't done mine yet but have sourced some stretchy black vinyl.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-iii...-iii-dash.html

Colin

Things are moving but at a glacial pace. Spending a bit of time trying to work out which wiring is superfluous, given I have removed the gas install and there was various wiring to a radio etc. It is going to be fun trying to get everything working again when I power it up I think :):):).

Covered the dash top with some fresh vinyl. I left the old vinyl in place, just cutting away the raised edges and filling the cracks with some crack filler that I had on hand.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1477226494

Cut the vinyl over size and starting on one edge and using contact adhesive, just work your way around the dash panel in increments. I found it relatively easy to stretch the vinyl to mold to the dash contours. When covered, carefully cut out the vent and screw holes.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1477226494

The finished product. Much nicer and hopefully good for a good few more years.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1477226494

You can see paper blanks for some VDO gauges and a radio I intend to install in the lower dash. Now got to work out how to provide a fascia to these to hide the big hole where the old radio was...

Cheers,

Great job Chris.
What crack filler and spray adhesive did you use.

Whitehillbilly

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64

Great job Chris.
What crack filler and spray adhesive did you use.

Whitehillbilly

---

The crack filler is just your bog standard residential crack filler. It is probably too rigid but I had some about and it sands off nicely. Time will tell I suppose.

The glue is just Kwik Grip contact adhesive. I used a tin of the stuff so I could brush it on. You can get a thicker layer that way and control exactly where it goes....

Thanks Chris..

Whitehillbilly

As part of my rebuild I am fitting some VDO electric water temperature and oil pressure gauges. I understand that the oil pressure sensor fits into the housing at the oil filter. My engine has 2 existing connected sensors at this housing already. The RH one I assume is the oil pressure switch for the warning light. The LH one looks like a oil pressure gauge sensor but there is no oil pressure gauge in the vehicle, or any evidence of one being fitted. Any idea what the LH sensor may be for?

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1477740720

Re water temperature, there is an existing sensor at the front of the v8 valley I presume for the std gauge in the instrument binnacle. Where can an additional sensor be located, or am I best replacing this one with the new VDO one or even using the existing sensor? I presume there would be calibration issues with using non-matched sensors??

Cheers,
Chris

Chris,the LH one looks like an oil pressure sensor for an electronic gauge.Simply remove it and replace with the VDO sensor.
Andrew

It runs again! Swapped all of the wiring over and eventually had to bite the bullet and power it up and see what happened! Well no smoke was released that I noticed, the dash lights all worked as supposed to, and it fired into life again :D:D:D It is fun but a bit antisocial to run it with exhaust manifolds only, got a nice guttural roar.... It is booked in for a new full exhaust on Wednesday.

I'm having trouble with the brakes on the rear. They won't bleed up using normal practice with a helper on the pedal etc. With pressure on the pedal, when I crack open the bleed screw there is a dribble at best and the pedal stays hard. The front brakes will bleed normally. I have swapped over to a master cylinder that worked previously and the same thing happens. Any ideas? Can the biasing valve (I assume that is what it is) on the chassis rail under the pedals seize or get debris in them to block flow to the rear?

Got Vince back from the Exhaust shop today! The new exhaust is a real work of art. Is 1.5" at the primaries into 2.25", then 2.5" from the cross pipe collector back. Single straight through muffler tucked up nicely out of harms way. Hope the floor inside does not get too hot though.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1478855353

I guy that did it said he really enjoyed working on something different. Certainly was different to the usual Commodores et al that usually come through the workshop :D:D. I think the crusty old series impressed them a bit :D:D:D:D.