series 3

Thanks Dark.
Went down for another play and Bert wouldn't start. checked fuel and pump and all seemed ok.
Ended taking the carby top off and rubber tipped needle valve was stuck closed, as bowl was dry.
Freed it up, put the top back on and he fired back up.
Found the live coil feed, comes off the battery feed to the top fuse. Corroded connection. Coil hot to touch after 10 mins of running.
Found another white wire that is live, key on or off.
Horn now works, few dodgy spade connections, and fuse connection.
Green oil light goes off as the motor starts to run.
Found the starter switch, on the panel, very clever. Any guesses ????
Motor dies when battery is disconnected. What do the two wires to the Altenator do ????
Little bit of white smoke from exhaust after idling for 10 mins, not blue, often associated with valve stem seals.

whitehillbilly

Quote:

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Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64

Thanks for the replies.
Early Selectro ones I think, but will check.
Found a sheet online. Is it the same as yours.
Second one down the page.
Selectro Free Wheel Hubs don't work...


Whitehillbilly

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No, mine are different. You may be right that these are an earlier model from the same company.
C00P

Quote:

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Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64

Coil hot to touch after 10 mins of running.

whitehillbilly

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Sounds like coil is meant for a circuit that uses a large resistor. THe system uses full voltage across the coil for starting, but uses a resistor to drop the voltage across the coil for normal running. The coil is meant to operate continuously on the lower voltage, but gives a better spark when connected directly for starting. It may not be the correct coil for your Landy.
Your wiring harness is a bit of a mish-mash, I suspect.... :confused:

C00P

These vehicles shouldn't be running a coil that needs a resistor - you need to get a coil that is rated at 12 volts - not used with a resistor.

Oh, and ditch the selectro free wheeling hubs if you ever want reliability. Both vehicles I've had that came with them had one that was busted so there was no 4WD. Some of the other styles of free wheel hub were stronger, but there are no real advantages (and some disadvantages) to running them so do yourself a favour and grab a set of drive flanges and put them back to original.

"What do the two wires to the Altenator do ????"

Good question.


On the wiring diagram I can see two leads off the alternator as 1) Brown from Solenoid to L+ whatever that means and 2) Brown and yellow that goes off to the low charge lamp on the dash (I think).


I'm assuming that 1) takes the charge from the alternator to the battery?


Where/what was the starter switch?
cheers,
D

Thanks for the replies.
Home star, been a bit quiet. Hows the restored going ????
Starter is the windscreen washer button.
And I thought the noise was the washer pump.

Whitehillbilly

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Homestar

These vehicles shouldn't be running a coil that needs a resistor - you need to get a coil that is rated at 12 volts - not used with a resistor.

Oh, and ditch the selectro free wheeling hubs if you ever want reliability. Both vehicles I've had that came with them had one that was busted so there was no 4WD. Some of the other styles of free wheel hub were stronger, but there are no real advantages (and some disadvantages) to running them so do yourself a favour and grab a set of drive flanges and put them back to original.

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And a new front drive shaft to go with the drive flanges! ;)


Cheers, Mick.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64

Thanks for the replies.
Home star, been a bit quiet. Hows the restored going ????
Starter is the windscreen washer button.
And I thought the noise was the washer pump.

Whitehillbilly

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Very slow on the restoration front - my Son works Saturdays and is generally not home on Sunday so finding the time to work on it with him is difficult. I said I wasn't going to work on it without him, but I think if I put it back on its wheels it may give him some incentive to get stuck in again.

Had running issues with Bert,
Fuel not getting to the carby, the rubber tipped fuel needle appeared to be sticking.
I had a new kit, so grabbed the brass needle and seat from it.
The seat from the kit did not want to screw in as easy as the old one that came out, so replaced it along with just the new needle.
Anyone else had problem with after market kits in old carbies ????
Today will be trying to undo the clutch lines to see why the clutch has not engaged.
The new after market clutch hose seem twice as long as the original one.
Would it be a multi fit item ????

whitehillbilly

Quote:

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Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64

Had running issues with Bert,
Fuel not getting to the carby, the rubber tipped fuel needle appeared to be sticking.
I had a new kit, so grabbed the brass needle and seat from it.
The seat from the kit did not want to screw in as easy as the old one that came out, so replaced it along with just the new needle.
Anyone else had problem with after market kits in old carbies ????
Today will be trying to undo the clutch lines to see why the clutch has not engaged.
The new after market clutch hose seem twice as long as the original one.
Would it be a multi fit item ????

whitehillbilly

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Some years ago I got a carbie kit that featured a needle valve seat that had the threaded bit not concentric with the unthreaded part, and could not be used. The supplier replaced it. They actually suggested that I bring the carbie in and they would overhaul it for me, but being over 1000km away that was not really practical.

So you are not the only person this has happened to.


John

John