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Thread: series 3

  1. #61
    cafe latte Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64 View Post
    Thanks for the replies.
    Whole chassis is a problem area.
    You should see the springs !!!!!
    Will try and get some pics.
    Compression tested motor.
    No1 140psi
    No2 137
    No3 140
    No4 145, all dry, plugs out, 1 and 4 were clean. 2 and 3 were sooty ????
    full throttle ???? whats the idea behind this.
    Cant believe how well this motor starts.

    whitehillbilly
    That really is a shame, saying that I have seen some bad chassis come back from the dead with a good welder and a lot of patience.
    Chris

  2. #62
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    Well Chris,
    due to your comments, I had a closer look tonight.
    Some of what I thought was peeling steel was in fact paint.
    Rear springs need replacing, rusted and split in half on some leafs.
    Chassis is worst on one side compared to the other. Guess which side I looked ????
    One Bulkhead out rigger needs replacing, also the two front dumb irons.
    Will try and take some pics soon.Bulkhead appears much better the Gilberts, with not that much rust really.
    Will try and take some pics soon

    whitehillbilly

  3. #63
    cafe latte Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64 View Post
    Well Chris,
    due to your comments, I had a closer look tonight.
    Some of what I thought was peeling steel was in fact paint.
    Rear springs need replacing, rusted and split in half on some leafs.
    Chassis is worst on one side compared to the other. Guess which side I looked ????
    One Bulkhead out rigger needs replacing, also the two front dumb irons.
    Will try and take some pics soon.Bulkhead appears much better the Gilberts, with not that much rust really.
    Will try and take some pics soon

    whitehillbilly
    Good news, I hope it is fixable . You have gone so far if it is doable and if you think you can do it have a go!!
    Worst that can happen is the kids farm rig is stronger and safer. Best is another series Landy is saved
    Fingers crossed it is not too bad under there.
    Chris

  4. #64
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    Got the brakes working good, then the peddle went to the floor.
    Fluid leaking just behind the fuel tank. Rusted hole in the pipe. Had a spare pipe on another chassis, so got it off and got the two ends freed up. Air would not blow through but wire poked in only 5 inches or so. Filled it up with brake fluid and Inox, didn't soak through but it came out 5 inched or so along the pipe, so it is stuffed as well. At least I have a pattern to make one.
    Changed oil and filter today.
    Cant believe how black the 'New' oil was after an hr or so of running. Lots of sludge in the filter housing. Wonder whats in the sump and around the pickup area.
    Change the oil in the Fairey O/D. the old oil was quite clean, so someone may have looked after it a bit.
    Played around with the electrics, not many wires rat chewed. Just have to work things out a bit.
    Cleaned fuses, original Lucas 35amp type.
    Red, charge lamp came on !!!!!!! going out after the engine was started, so I checked Altenater charge. My Amp meter went up to just under 14V at half throttle, going back down to idle.
    Green oil pressure lamp is working still after oil change, but did stay on for a minute or so, on first start up after change.
    Curious about dip stick marks.
    H, mark, 20 mm then Lmark , 70 mm ( guess ) then Min L mark ????

    whitehillbilly

  5. #65
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    That's interesting re the oil colour - when I changed Woodstock's , the old stuff was as black as the Ace of Spades as you can imagine. Put the new stuff in and expected it to go murky pretty quick - but three weeks later its still clean to the extent that I have trouble reading the dipstick. Not sure if I should be celebrating or commiserating. My red charge light always comes on when I first turn the key - goes off when the engine fires. The green oil light comes on briefly then goes out.
    cheers,
    D
    1957 88 Petrol (Chumlee)
    1960 88 Petrol (Darwin)
    1975 88 Diesel (Mutley)

  6. #66
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    Hi Dark,
    I didn't do the filter, first time, sort of flush. Just cheap Repco 20/50.
    Filter and better 20/50 second time. Old filter was very black.


    whitehillbilly

  7. #67
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Dipstick markings - Quoting from the user manual -

    "When using the Land-Rover under normal circumstances the oil level should not be allowed to fall below the minimum level mark, that is, the lower line on the dipstick.

    However, when using the Land-Rover in circumstances which involve it being used at steep angles, the oil should not be allowed to fall below the intermediate mark, that is, the low level. This will obviate any danger of oil pump starvation when the vehicle is facing downhill at a steep angle."

    (Owner's Manual P/N 4482 - actually 2a manual, but same engine)

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  8. #68
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    Thanks John.
    How do most series owners set the idle RPM ????

    whitehilbilly

  9. #69
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    First set points, then timing, then set mixtures, if possible, then set idle speed to specs of ur type of engine. I understand that there are a couple different s3 idle settings up to around 850 rpm, specific to the emissions fitted to that vehicle.
    My s2a idles beautifully at 450-500 rpm. Hope this helps😊

    Cheers Rod

    Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app

  10. #70
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    Thanks Rod.
    What do you use to get a 450/500 rpm
    Dwell meter, vacuum gauge, internal gauge connected where ????

    whitehillbilly

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