Thread: 1973 LWB Series III project photos

Originally Posted by Dark61

Its got to be feeling much better having got rid of all that redundant wire. Much easier for you moving forward if you run into any difficulties. Having disconnected the wire from the isolator to the starter - does it still turn over? I'm assuming you had another wire to the starter coming off the solenoid?
cheers,
D

Turns out it wasn't a solenoid, it was a battery isolator, which just splits the current from one source to two. I typod a previous post saying it was connector to the starter, it was actually connector to the alternator.

It all turns over fine, and it looks like the isolator was added when the ammeter was added, along with the secondary battery.

good news , well done. I was confused with it going to the starter. Thanks for letting us know.
cheers,
D

A couple of small updates:

Small cosmetic/lighting update:

I picked up a Francis spot light, normally for military use on Austin Champs, and Land Rovers, but they did see a bit of civilian use I've found.


A photo of it mounted on a champ, quite large:


I was planning on mounting this in the same place, LHS, in front of the mirror..
I'll need to ensure this is well within QLD TMR regs for work/search lamps.

As far as I can see, for worklamps:
source 1, worklamps:
http://www.tmr.qld.gov.au/-/media/Sa...G240.pdf?la=en

A lamp for the temporary purpose of reading signs, examining and/or making adjustments or repairs to the vehicle and /or managing its load (e.g. search lamp or work light) can be used, provided:
? The vehicle is stationary and the light is being used for making adjustments or repairs to a vehicle, or being used in an ?off road? situation, or
? the light is used temporarily to read a house number or notice board.

source 2, Driving lights:
http://www.tmr.qld.gov.au/-/media/Sa...psv3.pdf?la=en


Makes me think from a work light point of view it's fine, with a switch on dash, and on the light.. and only use it when the car is stationary.
It might be an issue regarding the car profile, but if it's inline with the wing mirror and isn't obstructing view, it should be fine.. Bit of a grey area, I may get TMR to confirm.. Anyone fitted anything like this?

Also, another somewhat cosmetic change:

I'm keen to add a radio (with bluetooth), once I get soundproofing installed it should be useful at least. However, I'm keen to retain the look of an older head unit, rather than a new one.

So I decided to gut an old radio, clean it up, and just wire up the switches to the new amp/radio.

Pulling radio apart:


Removed relevant parts


A bit of a clean up, probably will repaint this too:


Moving the push switches over should be easy, along with the volume knob, as the new amp has a volume knob. However the track seek / fm search on the new radio is 2 push buttons.. and I thought it'd be cool to get this working with the original rotary knob..

I'm aware of rotary encoders which would help with this, but this would require a logic circuit and is a bit more effort, then I came across Rotary Pulses Switches which would just be a direct switch over for the potentiometer.

The switch sends an on/off pulse a certain numbers of times for each revolution when rotated, and a different circuit is pulsed when rotated in the other direction, perfect.. Here's the circuit diagram:



Here's the part if anyone is interested, they're about $2 each from Aliexpress:
SRBM Series - Basic information

Ok.. so I've been away for quite a few weeks, so the project has suffered somewhat. Anyhow, now back onto it, and a small update from this afternoon:

After a trip back from the UK, I brought back half a suitcase of parts to save on postage.. of which included some LED WIPAC lamps, just the brake lights updated so far:

Before:


After:

One more photo:

Of course, it's massively dusty inside, I suspect this hasn't been opened for a couple of decades

Good to have you back - you inspired me to start pulling Mutley apart when you were chasing the wires re the split charge system etc.
Cheers,
D

Originally Posted by Dark61

Good to have you back - you inspired me to start pulling Mutley apart when you were chasing the wires re the split charge system etc.
Cheers,
D

Thanks, Glad I inspired you


Just started doing the rest of the lights.. my old flasher unit has 2 pins, and the new LED compatible one (WFL7LED) has four pins, (L L1 + -), can't locate a wiring diagram anywhere....

Any thoughts anyone?

Edit: Sorted, pretty sure the extra pin is for trailers.. photo updates to follow.

Light upgrade complete..

A load of bolts were rusted/seized, dremel to the rescue:


Getting closer:


Front before:


Front after:


Much brighter..


and finishing off the rear indicators (after doing brakes doing the week):


Just in case any is googling for WFL7LED wiring:
+ terminal, green wire from the fusebox:
- negative/earth
L terminal, green wire with brown tracer
L1 optional trailer load(?)


Also managed to fix dodgy panel lights.. turns out just a switch replacement solved it.

Keen to resolve lack of working horn tomorrow, fix number plate lamp (not working). As well as maybe relay up driving lights, as they're purely cosmetic right now(!)