I will try that thanks for the idea 4bee and yeah it was expected after being dipped that’s why I not too worried this ones going to be my daily when finishedQuote:
Originally Posted by 4bee
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I will try that thanks for the idea 4bee and yeah it was expected after being dipped that’s why I not too worried this ones going to be my daily when finishedQuote:
Originally Posted by 4bee
You are better off with the drips , when the galvanizers clean them off they use a air grinder & usually grind down to the original metal. If you use a smooth cut file you can file it down smooth . For big drips a bog file will take most off then finish with the smooth file. Spray aluminium paint colour is the closest you will get to Galv to touch up any blemishes , spray it on leave for about a minute then wipe with a cloth . Any were they have ground through the galv you can buy zinc sticks to repair. you heat up the area then wire brush it worm again & apply the zinc like using stick solder then work it in with a wire brush . Once cool a coat of spray aluminium to blend in.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dgd69
Thanks for the ideasQuote:
Originally Posted by 1950landy
Hi Dgd69, just stumbled over your thread and love what you’re doing with the truck. Can I please ask what type / brand paint you have used both on the chassis and the f/r diff housings? I do know of ppc chassis black, but think it’s high gloss is not right on suspension parts etc.. yours look perfect in a Matt/ satin style finish hence asking what you used?
Cheers,
Adam
74 S3 SWB
Not had time to do much but I did find a alloy tray the exact dimensions to suit a 109 it was off a 82 dyna truck fitted perfectly only temp fitted atm needs to come off again and get cleaned up and bolted down correctly https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2a509351d7.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2efd8dec36.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c4ed416721.jpg
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The tray looks quite good. Think very carefully about how itis attached, and avoid the possibility of stress concentrations both on the chassis and on the tray.
Been so long 3 or so months since I pulled the covers off the poor neglected Everest unfortunately work has been to busy but did a small job to finish off the cooling system fit the heater tap not the most exciting of jobs but another job done https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c82c01bd84.jpg
Hi all
Had a spare hour today and thought I would start to make up the door seals
Bought the correct profile rubber a while ago and popped into Bunnings for some aluminium strips
Only made the 1 so far and pre drilled the holes before fitting rubbers over the top
Test fitted to body by using gravity and seems to fit good
I know originally they had tube rivets to secure which I do have but a rivet squeezer is expensive to buy
I have used a modified g clamp before to squeeze tube rivets and may go this way but thinking just using some blind rivets just for the ease of installationhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f9ae7232d4.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7bebdcc734.jpg
[QUOTE=Dgd69;3075964]Hi all
Had a spare hour today and thought I would start to make up the door seals
Bought the correct profile rubber a while ago and popped into Bunnings for some aluminium strips
Only made the 1 so far and pre drilled the holes before fitting rubbers over the top
Test fitted to body by using gravity and seems to fit good
I know originally they had tube rivets to secure which I do have but a rivet squeezer is expensive to buy
I have used a modified g clamp before to squeeze tube rivets and may go this way but thinking just using some blind rivets just for the ease of installationhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f9ae7232d4.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7bebdcc734.jpgBlind Rivets are what I used, so unless you are a purist they'll be fine with no water leaks & as they are concealed by the Gasket who is going to know anyway.
Gaskets look a nice job. BTW, I found using Concertina Tongs with those size rivets (3/16" ally) made it a lot easier,
[QUOTE=4bee;3075973]With semi-tubular rivets and a squeezer you can control how much pressure is applied, with blind rivets the pressure is determined by the point at which the stem breaks. You may squish the seal too much, worth a trial run first.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dgd69
I have to strip a shorty roof, then seal and re-rivet to the guttering, I've been looking in the US for a rivet squeezer for some time. There are some reasonably priced ones and at some point I'll get round to purchasing.....
Out of interest where did you get the seal from ? I've looked at products from several suppliers and some are not even close to the original. Any chance of a picture of one end to see the profile ?
Thanks,
Colin