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Thread: Bought for parts

  1. #111
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    [QUOTE=gromit;3075977]
    Quote Originally Posted by 4bee View Post

    With semi-tubular rivets and a squeezer you can control how much pressure is applied, with blind rivets the pressure is determined by the point at which the stem breaks. You may squish the seal too much, worth a trial run first.

    I have to strip a shorty roof, then seal and re-rivet to the guttering, I've been looking in the US for a rivet squeezer for some time. There are some reasonably priced ones and at some point I'll get round to purchasing.....

    Out of interest where did you get the seal from ? I've looked at products from several suppliers and some are not even close to the original. Any chance of a picture of one end to see the profile ?

    Thanks,


    Colin


    True Colin, but you are only squishing down on the Ally strip when it lets go.

  2. #112
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    [QUOTE=gromit;3075977]
    Quote Originally Posted by 4bee View Post

    With semi-tubular rivets and a squeezer you can control how much pressure is applied, with blind rivets the pressure is determined by the point at which the stem breaks. You may squish the seal too much, worth a trial run first.

    I have to strip a shorty roof, then seal and re-rivet to the guttering, I've been looking in the US for a rivet squeezer for some time. There are some reasonably priced ones and at some point I'll get round to purchasing.....

    Out of interest where did you get the seal from ? I've looked at products from several suppliers and some are not even close to the original. Any chance of a picture of one end to see the profile ?

    Thanks,


    Colin
    Hi Colin

    I bought the seal from allfourx4 have attached a picture of bag it came in
    1960 series 2 143001010
    1976 series 3 91331709c
    98 discovery 300tdi manual
    06 discovery v6
    2010 cub supamatic drover

  3. #113
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    [QUOTE=Dgd69;3075987]
    Quote Originally Posted by gromit View Post

    Hi Colin

    I bought the seal from allfourx4 have attached a picture of bag it came in
    Thanks but I really need to see an end view of the seal if you get a chance to take one.
    You used to be able to get the seal from Clark Rubber but the lip was way too big. I got some from Paddocks in the UK and it's not even close to the correct profile plus the slot for the steel strip was almost triangular.
    I recently found some in amongst some parts purchased from a deceased estate and it looks perfect, problem is it's very old and I've no idea where it was purchased from !

    I need some but don't want to waste any more money.

    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
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  4. #114
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    [QUOTE=4bee;3075982]
    Quote Originally Posted by gromit View Post



    True Colin, but you are only squishing down on the Ally strip when it lets go.
    And the seal under the strip......

    I've seen it fitted with blind rivets and it looks OK, still trying to justify the cost of a rivet squeezer, plus I then need a supply of semi-tubular rivets.
    I have a few that came from a chap who used to work at Regent Motors assembling Series I's but not enough to re-seal a complete vehicle.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  5. #115
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    Bought for parts

    [QUOTE=gromit;3075990]
    Quote Originally Posted by Dgd69 View Post

    Thanks but I really need to see an end view of the seal if you get a chance to take one.
    You used to be able to get the seal from Clark Rubber but the lip was way too big. I got some from Paddocks in the UK and it's not even close to the correct profile plus the slot for the steel strip was almost triangular.
    I recently found some in amongst some parts purchased from a deceased estate and it looks perfect, problem is it's very old and I've no idea where it was purchased from !

    I need some but don't want to waste any more money.

    Colin
    Hi Colin

    Is this the view you require
    1960 series 2 143001010
    1976 series 3 91331709c
    98 discovery 300tdi manual
    06 discovery v6
    2010 cub supamatic drover

  6. #116
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    [QUOTE=Dgd69;3075996]
    Quote Originally Posted by gromit View Post

    Hi Colin

    Is this the view you require
    Many thanks, that looks better than the old Clark Rubber profile. A lot closer to the original.

    Door Seals

    The Series I Club have it listed, I must ask them for a picture of the profile. I also found a local supplier that were going to get back to me, they have the extrusion die in their Malaysian factory, problem was there was a huge minimum order required for them to set up & produce some....plus without seeing the result I wouldn't know what I was buying.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  7. #117
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    G'day Colin,

    The rubber profile you need is available from Old Auto Rubber (was spectrum rubber). Unfortunately you have to buy in 30 metre lengths however, maybe with some negotiation shorter lengths maybe possible.

    This is the link to their catalogue.
    http://www.oldautorubber.com/wp-cont...ed-Page-67.pdf

    Chris

  8. #118
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    [QUOTE=gromit;3075992]
    Quote Originally Posted by 4bee View Post

    And the seal under the strip......

    I've seen it fitted with blind rivets and it looks OK, still trying to justify the cost of a rivet squeezer, plus I then need a supply of semi-tubular rivets.
    I have a few that came from a chap who used to work at Regent Motors assembling Series I's but not enough to re-seal a complete vehicle.


    Colin

    Also true, but the resistance of both seem to work well together but the "Lazy Tongs" appeared to have a gradual pull before breaking. A bit clumsier/awkward to use but IMHO not as severe as the "hand squeeze riveter" when it lets go.



    It worked ok for me so was more than happy with the results.

  9. #119
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    [QUOTE=4bee;3076090]
    Quote Originally Posted by gromit View Post


    Also true, but the resistance of both seem to work well together but the "Lazy Tongs" appeared to have a gradual pull before breaking. A bit clumsier/awkward to use but IMHO not as severe as the "hand squeeze riveter" when it lets go.



    It worked ok for me so was more than happy with the results.
    I lashed out and bought a Milwaukee M12 rivet gun - well worth it for me and now I use rivets to secure all sorts - cheap and available is all sorts of sizes - I use really big steel suckers for things now - ones you’d never be able to use with a hand riveter. Bought for parts


    1977 101 FC - 'Chucky'
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    'Love with your heart - use your head for everything else.' - CaptainDisillusion

  10. #120
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    [QUOTE=Homestar;3076100]
    Quote Originally Posted by 4bee View Post

    I lashed out and bought a Milwaukee M12 rivet gun - well worth it for me and now I use rivets to secure all sorts - cheap and available is all sorts of sizes - I use really big steel suckers for things now - ones you’d never be able to use with a hand riveter. Bought for parts


    Yep, that really looks the business, especially if one was fixing a lot of stuff.


    My time over again & they were available then, I reckon I'd have got one of those as well.

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