Thread: Bought for parts

[QUOTE=gromit;3075977]

Originally Posted by 4bee

With semi-tubular rivets and a squeezer you can control how much pressure is applied, with blind rivets the pressure is determined by the point at which the stem breaks. You may squish the seal too much, worth a trial run first.

I have to strip a shorty roof, then seal and re-rivet to the guttering, I've been looking in the US for a rivet squeezer for some time. There are some reasonably priced ones and at some point I'll get round to purchasing.....

Out of interest where did you get the seal from ? I've looked at products from several suppliers and some are not even close to the original. Any chance of a picture of one end to see the profile ?

Thanks,


Colin

Hi Colin

I bought the seal from allfourx4 have attached a picture of bag it came in

[QUOTE=Dgd69;3075987]

Originally Posted by gromit

Hi Colin

I bought the seal from allfourx4 have attached a picture of bag it came in

Thanks but I really need to see an end view of the seal if you get a chance to take one.
You used to be able to get the seal from Clark Rubber but the lip was way too big. I got some from Paddocks in the UK and it's not even close to the correct profile plus the slot for the steel strip was almost triangular.
I recently found some in amongst some parts purchased from a deceased estate and it looks perfect, problem is it's very old and I've no idea where it was purchased from !

I need some but don't want to waste any more money.

Colin

[QUOTE=4bee;3075982]

Originally Posted by gromit

True Colin, but you are only squishing down on the Ally strip when it lets go.

And the seal under the strip......

I've seen it fitted with blind rivets and it looks OK, still trying to justify the cost of a rivet squeezer, plus I then need a supply of semi-tubular rivets.
I have a few that came from a chap who used to work at Regent Motors assembling Series I's but not enough to re-seal a complete vehicle.


Colin

[QUOTE=gromit;3075990]

Originally Posted by Dgd69

Thanks but I really need to see an end view of the seal if you get a chance to take one.
You used to be able to get the seal from Clark Rubber but the lip was way too big. I got some from Paddocks in the UK and it's not even close to the correct profile plus the slot for the steel strip was almost triangular.
I recently found some in amongst some parts purchased from a deceased estate and it looks perfect, problem is it's very old and I've no idea where it was purchased from !

I need some but don't want to waste any more money.

Colin

Hi Colin

Is this the view you require

[QUOTE=Dgd69;3075996]

Originally Posted by gromit

Hi Colin

Is this the view you require

Many thanks, that looks better than the old Clark Rubber profile. A lot closer to the original.

Door Seals

The Series I Club have it listed, I must ask them for a picture of the profile. I also found a local supplier that were going to get back to me, they have the extrusion die in their Malaysian factory, problem was there was a huge minimum order required for them to set up & produce some....plus without seeing the result I wouldn't know what I was buying.


Colin

G'day Colin,

The rubber profile you need is available from Old Auto Rubber (was spectrum rubber). Unfortunately you have to buy in 30 metre lengths however, maybe with some negotiation shorter lengths maybe possible.

This is the link to their catalogue.
http://www.oldautorubber.com/wp-cont...ed-Page-67.pdf

Chris

[QUOTE=gromit;3075992]

Originally Posted by 4bee

And the seal under the strip......

I've seen it fitted with blind rivets and it looks OK, still trying to justify the cost of a rivet squeezer, plus I then need a supply of semi-tubular rivets.
I have a few that came from a chap who used to work at Regent Motors assembling Series I's but not enough to re-seal a complete vehicle.


Colin

Also true, but the resistance of both seem to work well together but the "Lazy Tongs" appeared to have a gradual pull before breaking. A bit clumsier/awkward to use but IMHO not as severe as the "hand squeeze riveter" when it lets go.



It worked ok for me so was more than happy with the results.

[QUOTE=4bee;3076090]

Originally Posted by gromit

Also true, but the resistance of both seem to work well together but the "Lazy Tongs" appeared to have a gradual pull before breaking. A bit clumsier/awkward to use but IMHO not as severe as the "hand squeeze riveter" when it lets go.



It worked ok for me so was more than happy with the results.

I lashed out and bought a Milwaukee M12 rivet gun - well worth it for me and now I use rivets to secure all sorts - cheap and available is all sorts of sizes - I use really big steel suckers for things now - ones you’d never be able to use with a hand riveter.