No intention of buying, yeah right :DQuote:
Originally Posted by thumbsucker
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No intention of buying, yeah right :DQuote:
Originally Posted by thumbsucker
That actually does not look too bad from the pictures. But if serious get someone who knows what they are doing to look closely at it. The price is probably not too unreasonable, as long as there is no significant rust in the chassis or firewall. The engine smoke is likely to be just valve stem seals, simple and cheap to replace, although there is no guarantee of that.Quote:
Originally Posted by thumbsucker
The clutch is possibly, as suggested the hydraulics (either master or slave), but is just as likely to be one of the two pins linking the bell crank shaft from the slave to the clutch fork shaft (these must be hardened pins, not bolts as often used!)
For something like this example, expect at a minimum, as well as the valve stem seals, to have to replace all the brake and clutch cylinder seals (and likely cylinders), numerous oil seals, five tyres, probably all five sets of brake shoes, and possibly drums. Electrics need a good going over, and expect to replace probably all minor lights and possibly the headlights, wiper blades of course. Usually find you need to replace a couple of tie rod ends, and plan on swivel bushes and possibly pins - and hope the swivel balls don't need replacing. Maybe one or two U-joints, all spring and chassis bushes and possibly shackle pins and plates. It has no external mirrors. None of these items are expensive, but they add up.
And then it really needs a coat of paint, there is an issue with the fitting of the LH door, if you are repainting it you would probably want to replace door seals and tailgate seals and really all the body rubber bits, probably the gear lever knobs, can't see all the upholstery, but I bet some of it needs redoing. Then you really want to fit a heater in Melbourne, and possibly a radio, and it is likely you want to fit the later burst proof door locks, and there seems to be an issue with the bonnet lock. Maybe new window channels and a few bits like that. Springs may need work, even replacing. (now we are talking some significant items)
And you haven't really done anything except bring it up to scratch!
John
As has already been mentioned, it looks OK but pictures can be deceiving.
The cost of bringing it up to roadworthy condition can quickly ramp up.
The clutch hydraulics might be fixed with a couple of seal kits but as John mentioned it may need the gearbox (or engine) out to fix the clutch fork pins.
If it's smoking because of worn valve guides it's a head off job so gasket set, guides plus any valves that might be burnt or have badly worn stems. It could need a rebore & new pistons so the $$$'s start to rise.
Brakes could be OK but you could also spend a lot of money on drums, shoes, slave cylinders, brake pipes.....it depends what you find when you start working on it.
I noticed rust in the bottom of the passenger door. repair sections are available but it will mean de-skinning, welding in a repair section & re-skinning the door. Alternatively you have to find another door in better condition.
If the front axle swivel hubs are rust pitted there goes at least $350 per side.
As mentioned by others, there are then the springs, shock absorbers, potential rust problems, door tops (these are almost a consumable item), tyres, wheel bearings etc. etc.
I'm not trying to put you off but be aware that the cost of a cheap Land Rover can often be more than buying a tidy one with a roadworthy.......
You often see 'projects' come up for sale where Land Rovers have been stripped down to their component parts then the owner has become disillusioned and after a few years sells it off.
All that aside, if you need someone to look at the vehicle send me a PM as I'm not too far away. I'm in Knox on business at least once a week or I get the occasional free evening (kids in Joeys, Cubs, Scouts & Venturers but just coming to end of term).
Colin
Bearing in mind that a scrappy will give him possibly $500 for it, then he is really asking $1600.
Any faults you find can be used in an effort to make him lower his price. It helps to have a good idea of what parts will cost; tell what you think and suggest that he meets you half-way.
Good luck!
Cheers Charlie
PS You won't be disappointed with a late model 2A, when compared with a 3.
Just a comment about perceived scrap value. I seriously doubt any scrappy will give you 500 clams for an old Landy, even if you delivered it to his front door.
Scrap is about 30 to 50 a tonne (at the yard) for mixed metals, which is what a car is classified as, so don't let anyone have a lend of you saying "they are all alloy, the scrapyard will give 500 for it"
Just my 0.02c.
Hello Thumbsucker,
Following on from Paul. I had to do this exercise recently for a nice friendly government department that asks people to jump through its hoops.
The current value per ton for "light steel" is according to my nearest Metal Recycler is $50.00 per ton.
According to this mob I accessed November 22, 2016 from, SERIES I, II, IIA, III SPECIFICATION a 109 has the following specifications
Dimensions: Unladen weight from 3459 lbs
This equates to 1.56897601 ton or 1.6 ton rounded up.
Therefore 1.6 ton at $50 per ton light steel equals $78.45 This was when the scrap price was high.
By the way try stopping at getting one Land Rover Series - they are addictive.
Plus they can give lots of enjoyment and they can drive you crazy. You could find yourself sitting in a corner and practising your username a lot while making "blub" - "blub" sounds too and rocking back and forth.
Or perhaps this is just my response after spending a day trying to work out the Series secrets - unsuccessfully.
Kind Regards
Lionel
Not trying to put you off - but when you look at the pommy parts websites and think the prices seem reasonable - don't forget the postage - it soon adds up.
Cheers,
D